Conrad Gessner

Historiae animalium liber III qui est de Avium natura - 1555

De Gallina

transcribed by Fernando Civardi - translated by Elio Corti

440

 


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Ova fricta Florentinorum more: In ferventem ex oleo patellam, ova recentia, ablatis putaminibus [440] singillatim indes, tudiculaque aut cochleari circunquaque restringes, in rotundum redigens. Coloratiora ubi esse coeperint, cocta scito. tenella intus sint necesse est. Coqui difficilius haec, quam quae supra, consueverunt. Aliter: Ova integra in carbones ardentes conijcito, ac calida donec frangantur, fuste percutito. Cocta et exempta, petroselino et aceto suffundito. Ova fricta: Caseum pinguem et tritum, parum menthae ac petroselini concisi, uvae passae minimum, modicum piperis tunsi, duo vitella ovorum cruda simul miscebis. mixta, in ova more Florentino fricta, ubi inde per tenue foramen vitellum exemeris, indito: ac iterum frigito, donec farcimen coquatur. Convolvenda saepius sunt, et cocta agresta aut succo malarancij cum gingiberi suffundenda sunt.

Fried eggs in Florentine style: You will put fresh eggs one by one, deprived of shells, in a warm frying pan with oil, and by an olive squeezer or a spoon pile them going round in circles, giving them a round shape. When they begin to appear rather colored, remember that they are cooked. They must be rather soft inside. The cooks got accustomed with a certain difficulty to cook these eggs in comparison with the previous ones – in spit. In another manner: Put whole eggs on live charcoals and while they are hot beat them with a stick until get broken. When cooked and after the shell has been removed sprinkle them with parsley and vinegar. Fried eggs: You will mix together fat and minced cheese, a little bit of chopped mint and parsley, very little raisin, a small quantity of ground pepper, two raw egg yolks. Introduce all these amalgamated things into Florentine style fried eggs in that point whence you drew out their yolk through a small hole, and fry again until the stuffing is cooked. They should be turned rather frequently and when cooked have to be sprinkled with verjuice or orange juice with ginger.

Ova in pastilli morem: Farinam subactam, tenuem admodum facies: extensae per tabulam, ova recentia distincta spatiis addes, inspergendo semper unicuique parum sacchari, aromatum, minimum salis. Involuta deinde, ut pastillos solemus, aut elixabis aut friges. fricta tamen laudabiliora sunt. Dura fiant caveto. Hucusque Platina.

Eggs as in folded-over pizza: Prepare very thin kneaded flour: after you spread it on a table you will add fresh eggs separated by spaces, always sprinkling on each a little sugar, spices, very little salt. Then when you folded up them as we usually do for roulades, you will cook or fry them. However, fried they are more appreciated. Avert that they become hard. Thus far Platina.

Idem cap. 29. septimi libri iusculum verzusum describit: quod recipit ovorum vitella quatuor, sacchari unc. quatuor, succi mali {arancii} <aurantii> tantundem, semunciam cinnami, aquae rosaceae unc. duas. Iubet autem eo modo coqui, quo iusculum croceum coquitur: et quo magis placeat, etiam crocum addere. Hoc genus cibarii (inquit) aestate praecipue salubre habetur. multum enim ac bene alit, parum refrigerat, et bilem reprimit.

Still Platina in chapter 29 of VII book  describes the verzusum little broth, which requires four egg yolks, four ounces [around 100 g] of sugar, the same amount of orange juice, a half-ounce [13,64 g] of cinnamon, two ounces of rose water. He suggests to cook it like the saffron colored little broth is cooked, and to add also saffron so that it can be more tasty. He says that this kind of food is thought to be healthful especially in summer. For it nourishes a lot and well: it acts as a little laxative and represses anger.

¶ Germani kroßeyer vocant ova cum putamine suo in cinere assa, vel in butyro frixa, quibus in mucrone apertis aliquid salis et aromatum, ut cinnamomi, macis, et nucis myristicae inijcitur, et omnibus intus ligello[1] inserto diligenter permixtis, foramen iterum clauditur crustula testae cum albumine apposita, ut in Magirico quodam libro Germanice scripto reperimus. Ex quo etiam sequentem apparatum transcribere volui. Ova farcta: (author anonymus globosa vocat, kugelecht eyer:) Vitellos ovorum agita et misce cum pane de simila friato, nuce moschata et sale. hac impensa testas ovorum reple per foramen, quod crustula testae albumine illita rursus claudes. et ova coques pro libito, elixabis, assabis, aut friges in butyro. Placentam quae ex ovis fit nos frictatam vocamus, quae et tardi et nidorosi nutrimenti causa est, Brasavolus.

¶ Germans call kroßeyer the eggs roasted in ash along with their shell, or fried in butter, inside which, opened at the level of the acute pole, are put some salt and aromas as cinnamon, macis and nutmeg, and once all has carefully been mixed with the introduction of a stick, the hole is newly closed with the fragment of shell glued with egg white, as I have found in a book for cooks written in German. From this book I wanted to transcribe also the following recipe. Stuffed eggs (the anonymous author calls them spherical, kugelecht eyer): Beat and mix the eggs with crumbled bread of bran, nutmeg and salt. Fill the shells of the eggs with these ingredients through the hole that you newly will close with the fragment of shell smeared with egg white. And you will cook the eggs ad lib, you will made them boiled, roasted or fried in butter. The we call omelet the flat bread done with eggs, which is a food slow to be digested and smelling of burnt, Antonio Brasavola.

Mutagenat, id est cibus qui fit in aliquo vase cum lacte seminum communium et iure gallinae et vitellis ovorum cum saccharo et miscella aromatica e cin<n>amomo, spica, cubebis, calamo aromatico et cari semine. coquitur autem in igne et apposita super vas testa calida, Sylvaticus. Farinam quidam ex ovis aut lacte subigunt, Plinius[2]. Idem mulieres nostrae faciunt, et phyramata sic subacta cylindro extendunt in tabula, substrata inspersaque farina, in fascias oblongas, quas deinde per partes quadratas dividunt, quantas capere sartago potest, in qua oleo aut butyro frigi debent eyerözle/milchözle. Sed alia quoque innumera panum, placentarum, laganorum, eduliorumque diversorum genera ex ovis, aut eis admixtis, fiunt, vulgo cognita, (pfannenküchen / verbzüutne küchle / eyermüser / jüssel / eyerziger / gebzatne milch, etc) quae omnia persequi infinitum foret. Sat fuerit ea quae authores de his tradiderunt collegisse.

Mutagenat, that is, a food prepared in a terracotta vase with a lactescent juice of common seeds, and with hen’s broth and egg yolks with sugar and an aromatic mixture done with cinnamon, matgrass, cubeb pepper, sweet flag and German cumin seeds. It is cooked on fire and after a hot terracotta cover has been placed on the vase, Matteo Silvatico. Some mix the flour with eggs or milk, Pliny. The same are doing our women, and the gummy mixtures so gotten using a cylinder they stretch them in lengthened strips on a table sprinkling under and above with flour, and then they divide them in so many squares a frying pan can hold, in which the eyerözle/milchözles have to fry with oil or butter. But with the eggs, or mixing them, are prepared also other innumerable types of breads, flat breads, fritters and different foods that people know, (pfannenküchen/verbzüutne küchle/eyermüser/jüssel/eyerziger/gebzatne milch, etc) and that we would not stop in  describing them. It will be enough to have gathered what the authors have handed down about them.

¶ Pars VII. Ordo ovorum in cibo. Ova bina mensae inferri secundae apud priores solita scribit Athenaeus[3], cum turdis, etc. Apud Romanos coenae initia habebant ova, attestante Porphyrio quoque. Unde Horatius[4], Ab ovo usque ad mala citaret <“io Bacche”>, Sermonum I. Integram famem ad ovum affero: itaque usque ad assum vitulinum (alias vitellinum) opera ista perducitur, Cicero in epist. ad Paetum. Ubi integram famem ad ovum afferre (inquit Caelius) non aliud esse videtur, quam ad secundam usque mensam cibi appetentiam producere. Quod si sanitatis rationem spectes, ova quoquo modo parata tum a sanis tum ab aegris priore loco sumenda videntur. a sanis, quoniam facilius, sorbilia praesertim et mollia, concoquuntur. liquidiora enim et faciliora concoctu, quaeque facile corrumpuntur, priore sumi loco debent. a duris quidem sanos pariter et aegros, et hos multo magis abstinere prorsus convenit, nisi cum alvus solutior est, quam si durius coctis ovis coercere libuerit, ea quoque ante alios cibos esitari convenit: ut contra etiam si mollire alvum sorbili<b>us exhauriendis statueris, id quoque initio mensae faciendum.

Section 7 - Order of apparition of the eggs in table. Athenaeus writes that among ancients usually two eggs each were served as second course along with thrushes, etc. As also Porphyrius testifies, among Romans the eggs were opening the dinner. hence Horace in I book of Sermones - or Satirae - writes: He would have begun to sing "hurray Bacchus" from egg to apples. I bring the hunger intact up to the egg: and therefore this activity lasts until roast veal (that is, until yolk), Cicero in one of the letters to Lucius Papirius Paetus. Where to bring the hunger intact up to the egg (Lodovico Ricchieri says) seems to mean nothing else than to stretch the food appetite until the second course. And if you consider the health's reasons, it seems that the eggs prepared in whatever way must be eaten as first course both by healthy and sick people. By healthy people, since, above all those à la coque and the coddled ones, are digested more easily. In fact being more liquid and easier to be digested, and therefore easily going bad, they have to be eaten as first course. From hard-boiled ones it is worthwhile that are abstaining at all the healthy and sick people and these much more, but when the faeces are a little bit liquid, and we want to curb them more strongly with the cooked eggs, it is necessary that also they are eaten before the other foods: on the contrary even if you will have established to soften the faeces by gulping down those to be drunk, also this has to be done when we start to eat.

G.

G

DE REMEDIIS EX OVIS,

PARTES.

The remedies gotten from eggs

Sections

Pars I. De remediis ex ovis integris in genere primum, deinde particulatim.

II. De oleo ovorum. Et remedium ex putidis.

III. Remedia ex sorbilibus.

IIII. E crudis.

V. E duris, et ustis.

VI. Cum aceto.

VII. Cum aliis diversis admixtis.

VIII. De remediis albuminis.

IX. De remediis vitelli.

X. De pellicula interiore, et pullis ovorum, id est, nondum exclusis.

XI.  De testis ovorum

Section 1 - At first general information on the remedies gotten from whole eggs, then in detail.

2 - The oil gotten from eggs. Remedy from rotten ones.

3 - Remedies from those à la coque.

4 - Remedies from those uncooked.

5 - Remedies from those hard-boiled and toasted.

6 - Remedies from those with vinegar.

7 - From eggs mixed with other components.

8 - The obtainable remedies from albumen.

9 - The obtainable remedies from yolk.

10 – The inner membrane and the chicks into the egg, that is, not yet born.

11 - The eggshells.

¶ Pars I. De remediis ex ovis totis, in genere. Anserina et pavonina ova idem quod gallinacea praestant, Kiranides. Ovum gallinaceum maxime nobis in usu est, utpote facillimum paratu. quare non indigemus aliis, licet eadem facultate praeditis. est autem temperamento frigidius symmetris, Galenus de simplic. 11. Posset tamen aliquis haec omnia ad album duntaxat ovi liquorem referre, cum et ante et post haec verba de eo ipso Galenus agat. sed ipsum quoque integrum ovum aliqui ad frigiditatem vergere sentiunt, eo quod albuminis in eo quam vitelli copia maior sit. Et ipse Galenus mox in eodem capite, ovi (inquit) vel albumen, vel id una cum vitello impositum ambustis, [441] mediocriter refrigerat[5].

¶ Section 1 - General information on the remedies gotten from whole eggs. The eggs of goose and peacock are equivalent to those of hen, Kiranides. We use the egg of hen more than all other eggs, since it is very easy to be gotten. Therefore we don't need the other eggs, even if endowed with the same faculties. But that of hen has a colder temperament in comparison with those equivalent to it, Galen in XI book of De simplicium medicamentorum temperamentis et facultatibus. Nevertheless someone could ascribe all this only to egg white, being that both before and after these words Galen really speaks of egg white. But some people are of the opinion that really the whole egg tends to the cold being that in it is present a greater quantity of egg white than of yolk. And the same Galen soon after in the same chapter says: the egg white or in association with yolk applied on burns is rather refreshing.


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[1] Ligellum, Ein kleyns hütlen / heüßlin. Est diminutivum à ligno. (www.staff.ncl.ac.uk/jon.west/. © 2001 Jonathan West)

[2] Naturalis historia XVIII,105: Quidam ex ovis aut lacte subigunt, butyro vero gentes etiam pacatae, ad operis pistorii genera transeunte cura.

[3] Deipnosophistaí XIV,49,641f. § Se fossero due uova ciascuno, oppure alcune uova, oppure un solo uovo, tutto dipende dai testi a disposizione. Georg Kaibel (Dipnosophistarum libri XV vol III, Teubner, Stuttgard,1985) riporta in prima istanza ᾠὸν, mentre dà ᾠὰ come alternativa. La traduzione di C.D.Yonge, (1854) che adotta ᾠὰ recita: Eggs too often formed a part of the second course, as did hares and thrushes, which were served up with the honey-cakes [...].

[4] Satirae I,3,6-8: [...] si conlibuisset, ab ovo | usque ad mala citaret ‘io Bacche’ modo summa | voce, modo hac, resonat quae chordis quattuor ima.

[5] A pagina 438 viene riportato moderate. Per non entrare in contraddizioni – anche se si tratta di sottigliezze linguistiche - attribuiamo a mediocriter e a moderate lo stesso significato: abbastanza.