Conrad Gessner
Historiae animalium liber III qui est de Avium natura - 1555
De Gallina
transcribed by Fernando Civardi - translated by Elio Corti
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Ova quae
coquuntur in aqua, quandoque absque testa, quandoque cum testa
imponuntur, et ἐξάφητα a Graecis dicuntur,
Brasavolus in Aphorismos[1].
Hermolaus in Corollario exapheta eadem facit quae pnicta. Ego apud
Graecos scriptores veteres reperiri hoc nomen non puto, Lexicorum quidem
scriptores qui vocabula vel Graece vel Latine exposuerunt, non ponunt.
Videntur autem mihi ἐξαφητά (syll.
ultima acuta) ova appellari, quae e testis suis effusa coquuntur
integra, sive in aquam calidam, ut sorbilia vel mollia coquenda, sive
aliter ut pnicta, ut quidam putant. Nam si non integra, sed fracta
mistaque liquoribus addendis coquuntur pnicta, (ut mihi quidem videtur,
et explicabo inferius,) non putarim exapheta vocanda: Quod ad vocabuli
originem certi nihil habeo. His scriptis locum Symeonis Sethi inveni,
quem aliis errandi occasionem dedisse video. sunt autem verba haec, ἐπαινοῦνται
δὲ τὰ πνικτά
ὡσπερ γε καὶ
τὰ ὀνομαζόμενα
ἐξεφετά
(Gyraldus legit ἔξεφθα,
quasi ἔξω τοῦ
ἰδίου
κελύφους
ἑψόμενα insinuans. sed hoc
nomen apud alios authores non extat. malim ego ἐξαφετά
legere, hoc est emissa et effusa, a verbo ἀφίημι. talia autem vocabula non usitata veteribus Graecis, nec
analogice composita non pauca recentiores habent a vulgo sumpta,) τὰ
ἐπὶ θερμοῦ
ὕδατος
σκευαζόμενa, hoc est, laudantur quae pnictà dicuntur, et exaphetà, quae
in aqua calida coquuntur. quod autem intelligat de iis quae in aqua
calidam e testa sua effunduntur, vel hinc patet, quoniam de aliis iam
supra egerat, et quod haec ova ab aliis etiam, praecipue Arabibus, quos
Symeon in multis sequi solet, probantur: et quod Galenus quoque eorum
meminit post pnictà, periphrastice nominans τὰ
ἐπιχεόμενα
ἄνωθεν ταῖς
λοπάσιν, hoc est patellis (calidam
scilicet continentibus) infundi solita, infundi autem nisi fracta testa
non possunt. |
The
eggs cooked in water, sometimes are put there without shell, sometimes
with the shell, and by Greeks are told exáphëta, Antonio
Brasavola
In Hippocratis aphorismos commentarii of Galen. Ermolao
Barbaro
in Corollarium ad Dioscoridem
says that the exáphëta
and the pniktà are the same. I don't believe that among the
ancient Greek writers we succeed in finding this word, since the
lexicographers who quoted either Greek or Latin words don't mention it.
Really it seems to me that are said exaphëtá (with the acute
accent on the last syllable) those eggs which after having made them to
escape from their shell are whole cooked, both in hot water, as those
cooked for being sipped, or soft, either in different way as the pniktà,
as some think. In fact if the pniktà are cooked not whole, but
dissolved and mixed with the liquids which have to be added (as it seems
to me, and which I will explain more later), I would be of the opinion
that they must not be called exaphëtá. As far as the etymology
of the word is concerned, I have nothing of certain. Among these
writings I have found a passage of Simeon Sethi
which I think supplied
others with the occasion to be wrong. In fact these words: epainoûntai
dè tà pniktà høsper ge kaì tà onomazómena exephetá - those
smothered are appreciated as those said exephetá (Giglio Gregorio
Giraldi
reads éxephtha, almost insinuating that éxø toû
idíou kelýphous hepsómena - cooked outside of their own shell.
But this word doesn't exist among other authors. I would prefer to read exaphetá,
that is made to go out and dispersed, from the verb aphíëmi - I
make to go out. In fact such words are not used by ancient Greeks,
and more recent ones have composed a lot of them by analogy inferring
them from common speaking) they mean tà epì thermoû hýdatos
skeuazómena, that is, those said pniktà and exaphetá
are praised, cooked in hot water. But that it want to point out those
made to go out of their shell into the hot water is clear also from this
phrase, since he already disserted about the others previously, and
since these eggs are appreciated also by others, above all by Arabs,
whom Simeon Sethi usually follows in many points: and since also Galen
mentions them after the pniktà, quoting by a periphrasis tà
epicheómena ánøthen taîs lopásin, that is, those usually
emptied in frying pans (which obviously contain hot water), in fact they
cannot be poured there but after the shell has been broken. |
Symeon autem
cum caetera ex Galeno (lib. 3. de alim. cap. de ovis) mutuatus sit, hanc
etiam partem non omissam ab eo esse credendum est. Nostri haec vocant in
wasser gefelt/in wasser geflagen; et vel per se edenda, aegris
praesertim afferre solent, vel coctis panis segmentis imposita. In his
parandis (inquit Galenus) similiter ut in pnictis curandum est, ne supra
mediocrem consistentiam incrassentur: sed cum adhuc succum suum retinent,
vas ab igne submovendum. Symeon Sethi etiam αὐγοκούλικα
ova nominat, quam vocem Gyraldus interpres relinquit, ea forte fuerint
quae non ut exapheta extra testa, sive parum sive multum coquantur.
Graecus quidem Symeonis textus corruptus videtur: nam post nominata
simpliciter sorbilia, mollia, et dura, mox subijcitur: καὶ
κοινῶς δὲ
τούτων τὰ
αὐγοκούλικα,
nulla idonea constructione. Graeci quidem hodie vulgo ova
vocant αὐγά[2].
culica testas intelligo. nam et culleolam[3]
et guliocam (ut Calepinus scribit) nucis iuglandis summum et viride
putamen dici invenio. |
But
since Simeon Sethi deduced other things from Galen (III book, chapter on
the eggs, of De alimentorum facultatibus), we have to believe
that by him neither this part has been omitted. Our fellow citizens call
these eggs in wasser gefelt/in wasser geflagen; and they usually
give them to eat above all to sick persons either alone or putting them
on cooked slices of bread. In preparing them (Galen says) we have to
watch out, as for the smothered ones, that they don't harden too much:
but when they still have their liquid we have to remove the pot from the
fire. Simeon Sethi also quotes the eggs augokoúlika, a word
which the translator Giglio Gregorio Giraldi omits, and perhaps they
were those which unlike the exaphetá are cooked both few and a
lot without the shell. Really the Greek text of Simeon Sethi seems
corrupt: in fact after those to be sipped, those soft and those hard
have been mentioned, soon after is added: kaì koinôs dè toútøn tà
augokoúlika – and usually of those the augokoúlika,
without any appropriate construction. Today the Greeks usually call the
eggs augá. For culica I mean the shells. In fact I find
written that the most external and green wrap of the walnut is said culleola
and gulioca (as Ambrogio Calepino
writes). |
¶
Ad mediocrem usque consistentiam cocta τρομητά, id est tremula nuncupantur, Galenus et Symeon Sethi. Quod Dioscorides ἁπαλόν,
id est tenerum ovum dixit, nos ex Celso molle vertimus, Marcellus {Vergilius}
<Virgilius>. Τρομητά,
tremula interpretantur nonnulli, ut sint eadem cum iis quae liquida seu
mollia, vel hapala etiam dicuntur. tamquam hoc nomine dicuntur
Neapolitanis, quae sine testa enascuntur, Caelius. Tenerum, sive
liquidum, sive (ut Cornelius) molle, ἁπαλόν
Graeci vocant, quod recentiores elixum et semicoctum interpretantur,
Hermolaus. Et rursus, Sunt et quae τρομητά,
hoc est tremula dicantur. sed haec alii aliter cognominant. et quantum
conijcio, tenera et tremula sint eadem. Ego liquida, non ut Caelius et
Hermolaus tremula aut mollia dixerim, sed potius sorbilia, quae cum tota
adhuc liquida sint, tota etiam exorberi possint. mollibus panis intingi
solet, dura manduntur dentibus. |
¶
Those cooked until to reach a middling consistence are told tromëtá,
that is trembling, Galen and Simeon Sethi. What Dioscorides called hapalón,
that is tender, basing ourselves on Celsus
we translate with soft,
Marcello Virgilio Adriani. Some people believe that the tromëtá,
the trembling ones, are nothing but the liquid or soft ones, also said hapalá.
More or less with this name are called by Neapolitans those laid without
shell, Lodovico Ricchieri. The Greeks call hapalón that which
is tender, or liquid, or soft (as Cornelius Celsus says), which the
more recent authors translate with boiled and half cooked, Ermolao
Barbaro. And still: There are also those called tromëtá, that
is, trembling. But others call them with other terms. And as far as I
can infer, they are the same thing of those tender and trembling. I
would term the liquid ones not as tender and trembling like Celsus and
Ermolao, but rather as eggs to be sipped, since being still completely
liquid they can be entirely drunk. In those soft it is custom to dip the
bread, those hard-boiled are chewed with the teeth. |
Sorbile, ῥοφητόν,
ovum vocat Dioscor. quod in coctura concepto tantum calore vix densari
incoeperit, et liquidum adhuc caleat potius quam coctum sit. Tenerum
deinde sive molle, quod ulteriore coctura, densatum quidem, non tamen
duratum penitus fuerit, Marcellus {Vergilius}
<Virgilius>. Hapalà, id est tenella vel
liquida dicuntur ova cocta, ut albumen in coagulati lactis speciem
veniat, recentes semicocta interpretantur et elixa, sed an bene,
iudicium ferre nolo. sunt autem forte illa quae a Celso capite secundo
lib. 2. mollia dicuntur[4].
Quod si adhuc magis coquantur, ut ad mediocrem usque consistentiam
veniant, et ita fiant, ut cum e putamine educuntur, tremere videantur, τρομητά,
id est tremula dicuntur. Sunt qui velint haec illa esse quae Celsus
mollia vocavit. Sed et tremula, et mollia et sorbilia, ac si idem sint
accipimus, nec ullam differentiam quae digna notatu sit, facimus,
quamvis Galenus sentiat tremula omnium optime nutrire: sorbilia minus,
sed expeditius descendere, Brasavolus. Tragus ova mollia vel tremula,
interpretatur Germanice totterweiche eyer. |
Dioscorides
calls egg to be sipped, rhophëtón, that which during the
cooking, having absorbed only some heat, just begun to solidify, and the
liquid is still warm instead of cooked. Then he calls tender or soft
that which by a further cooking has thickened but not hardened
completely, Marcello Virgilio Adriani. Hapalà are said, that is
a little bit tender or liquid, the eggs cooked in such a way that the
albumen shows itself as a coagulated milk, the recent authors translate
with half-cooked and boiled, but I don't want to express a judgment if
they do this in a correct way. Really perhaps the hapalà are
those said soft by Celsus in the II chapter of the II book of De
medicina. Since if they are cooked a little bit more so to reach a
middling consistence, so that when are made to go out of the shell they
seem to tremble, they are said tromëtá, that is, trembling.
Some people would be in the opinion that these eggs are those called
soft by Celsus. But I think that either the trembling ones or those soft
or those to be sipped are the same thing, and I feel that there is no
difference worthy of note, even if Galen is in the opinion that those
trembling nourish better than any: those to be sipped nourish less, but
they go down more quickly along the digestive apparatus, Antonio
Brasavola. Hieronymus Bock
said Tragus translates in German the soft or
trembling eggs with totterweiche eyer. |
¶ Ἑφθά et ἑψηθέντα
absolute Galeno et Symeoni Sethi dicuntur, non simpliciter elixa, sed ad
duritatem aliquam: Ovum σκληρόν, hoc
est durum, quod ita sit coctum ut indurescat, videtur autem idem ἑφθόν,
Hermolaus. Ἑφθά vocant perfecte cocta, quae vulgo ova apta ut ex
pane comedantur, nuncupamus, at si adhuc magis coquantur, dura (σκληρά)
fiunt. Galenus tamen hephthà et dura pro iisdem sumere videtur,
Brasavolus. Durum sive igne duratum ovum, quod extrema coctura ad eam
duritiem pervenerint, ut commanducari et teri dentibus opus sit,
Marcellus {Vergilius}
<Virgilius>. Nostri
huiusmodi ova testis suis exuunt, et in partes aliquot secant, ut
alternis vitelli ac albuminis segmentis lances acetariorum coronent.
Easdem etiam partes, seorsim utrasque minutim dissectas, duobus in lance
intervallis distinguunt, et tertium addunt de carne infumata rubente,
donec alternis lanx repleatur, quam sacro die pascali qui ecclesiae
Romanae ritus sequuntur, in templum sacerdoti consecrandum afferunt. |
¶
If they acquired a little bit of consistence, by Galen and Simeon Sethi
are said in no uncertain terms hephthá and hepsëthénta
- boiled - and not simply cooked. The egg sklërón, that is
hard, since it is cooked in such a way to become hard, seems to be the
same thing as hephthón, Ermolao Barbaro. They call hephthá
those perfectly cooked, which we usually label as eggs proper to be
eaten with bread, but if they were further cooked they become hard (sklërá).
Nevertheless Galen seems to mean as equivalent the boiled ones - hephthà
- and those hard-boiled, Antonio Brasavola. Is said hard or hard-boiled
by fire that egg which by an extreme cooking reached such a point of
hardness to have to be chewed and fragmented with teeth, Marcello
Virgilio Adriani. Ours strip such eggs from their shells and cut them in
a certain number of pieces so to decorate the dishes of salad seasoned
with vinegar by fragments of yolk and albumen alternatively placed. And
still these fragments, both finely chopped in a separate way, they
alternatively place them in the dish and add a third element represented
by bloody smoked meat until the dish doesn't come alternatively filled,
and in the sacred day of Easter the followers of the rites of the Church
of Rome bring it in the church to the priest to be consecrated. |
¶ Assa vel
tosta, ὀπτά
ἤ ὀπτηθέντα,
quae in cineribus coquuntur, vel assantur, Galeno et aliis. Tostum ovum
dissilit facile, non dissilit aqua concoctum, (ut in C. explicatum est) quamobrem perfundi prius
frigida solent ova, Caelius. |
¶
Roasted or toasted, optá ë optëthénta, those cooked or
roasted in ash, Galen and others. The roasted egg easily breaks, doesn't
break that cooked in water (as is explained in the paragraph C),
therefore usually the eggs are first of all dipped in cold water
Lodovico Ricchieri. |
[1] Probabilmente si tratta del In Hippocratis aphorismos commentarii di Galeno contenuto in Galeni Omnia quae extant opera in Latinum sermonem conversa curato da Brasavola.
[2] L’etimologia di αὐγό e dell’equivalente ἀβγό è la seguente: τά ὠά > ταυά > τ΄αὐγά / τ΄ἀβγά che sono ovviamente il plurale di uovo. La forma attualmente in uso è αὐγό, mentre è passata in secondo piano la forma dimotikí ἀβγό.
[3] Culeus, culleus e culleum indicano un sacco di cuoio per liquidi, nonché il culleo, il sacco in cui venivano rinchiusi i parricidi e fatti annegare.
[4] De medicina II,18,10: Tum res eadem magis alit iurulenta quam assa, magis assa quam elixa. Ovum durum valentissimae materiae est, molle vel sorbile inbecillissimae. (Loeb Classical Library, 1935) – Questo è l’unico riferimento che mi è stato possibile reperire.