Conrad Gessner
Historiae animalium liber III qui est de Avium natura - 1555
De Gallina
transcribed by Fernando Civardi - translated by Elio Corti
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¶ De Graeco
penu est Babylonios venatibus assuetos, [436] ubi in solitudine
deprehenderentur, nec cibaria percoquendi esset occasio, cruda ova
fundae imposita, vertigine assidua tandiu rotare consuevisse, donec
coquerentur, Caelius. |
¶
From the Greek provisioning it results that those usually hunting
Babylonians, when were in desert places and didn't have the possibility
to cook the foods, after put the raw eggs on a sling they were usual to
rotate them for a so long time until were cooked, Lodovico Ricchieri. |
¶ Postremo τηγανιστὰ
dicuntur ova in sartagine spissata, oleo scilicet vel butyro fricta. nam
teganon Graecis patellam vel sartaginem significat. nostri vulgo ova in
butyro nominant, eyer in ancken. His vesci solent, praecipue in
ientaculo, ebriosi etiam aliqui in comessatione, Tragus. Alhagie ex vitellis ovorum est cibus, factus in sartagine ex ovis
conquassatis, quem Veneti fritaleam appellant, Andreas Bellunensis. |
¶
Finally are said tëganistà the eggs hardened in frying pan,
obviously fried with oil or butter. In fact for Greeks tëganon
means saucepan or frying pan. Ours commonly call them eggs in butter, Eyer
in Ancken. They are usual to eat them above all at breakfast, some
drunkards also during debauches, Hieronymus Bock said Tragus. The alhagie
is a food gotten by egg yolks and prepared in frying pan with beaten
eggs, which Venetians call omelette, Andrea Alpago. |
¶ Ova quae
pnicta[1],
id est suffocata appellant, elixis (hephthis, id est duris) et assis
sunt meliora. parantur autem ad hunc modum. ubi ipsa oleo et garo et
pauco vini conspersa fuerint, vas, quo continentur, cacabo aquam calidam
habenti indunt. deinde ubi ipsum totum superne obturarint, ignem
substruunt, quoad ova mediocrem habeant consistentiam. Quae enim supra
modum fiunt crassa, elixis et assis sunt similia. quae vero ad mediocrem
crassitiem pervenerunt, et melius quam dura concoquuntur, et alimentum
corpori dant praestantius, Galenus lib.3. de alim. facult. ut quidam
transtulit. sed verbum Graecum ἀναδεύσαντες,
quo Galenus et Aegineta utuntur, non conspergere, sed subigere et
permiscere significat: quod miror nec Hermolaum, nec alios (quod sciam)
praeter Cornarium animadvertisse. is enim in annotationibus suis in
Galeni libros de compos. medic. sec. locos, haec Aeginetae verba super
his ovis, ἀναδεύθεντα
ὠμά μετὰ
γάρου καὶ
οἴνου καὶ
ἐλαίου, καὶ
ἐν διπλόμασι
συμμέτρως
πηγνύμενα: sic
vertit, Cruda cum garo vinoque ac oleo subacta, (Albanus irrigata vertit,
et diplomata inepte vasa aenea testaceave) in duplici vase coquuntur
donec mediocriter condensentur. |
¶
The eggs they call pnictà - cooked
in a well closed pot, that is, smothered, are better than the boiled
ones (hephthis, that is hard) and than the roasted ones. They are
prepared as follows. After they have been sprinkled with oil, sauce of
fish and little wine, they introduce the vessel in which are contained
in a copper pot with warm water inside. Then after having completely
closed it in the upper part they put fire under it until the eggs
reached a moderate consistence. In fact those hardening over a certain
degree are similar to the boiled and roasted ones. But those which
reached a middling consistence are digested even better than those
hard-boiled and supply the body with a better nourishment, Galen in the
III book of De alimentorum facultatibus, as someone translated.
But the Greek verb anadeúsantes, used by Galen and Paul of
Aegina, doesn't mean to sprinkle, but to dip and to mix: I marvel that
neither Ermolao Barbaro nor others (as far as I am aware) realized this,
except Janus Cornarius. He in fact in his annotations about the books
of Galen's De compositione medicamentorum secundum locos, the
following words of Paul of Aegina regarding these eggs anadeúthenta
ømá metà gárou kaì oínou kaì elaíou, kaì en diplómasi summétrøs
pëgnúmena he translates in this way: Raw beaten with sauce of
fish and with wine and oil (Alban Thorer translates with watered,
and the diplomata - pots with double receptacles for bain-marie
- foolishly translates them with bronze or terracotta pots) are
cooked in a double pot until didn't harden a little bit. |
Galenus lib.
11. de simplic. medic. de ovis agens, utiliter ovum crudum ambustis
imponi scribit, sive albumen tantum imponas lana molli exceptum: sive
ovum totum una cum vitello conquassatum, ἀναδεύσας.
Ἀναδεύειν,
φυρᾷν, μαλάττειν,
Hesychius. Δεύειν,
βρέχειν, Varinus: id est
irrigare, madefacere. Videtur autem verbum compositum ἀναδεύειν,
permixtionem quae per totum fiat, praesertim in humido vel liquido,
(quasi ἄνω
καὶ κάτω καὶ
διὰ παντός
γιγνομένην)
significare. hanc enim vim praepositio ἀνὰ
in compositione
quandoque habet, ut in verbis ἀναφυρᾶν,
ἀναμιγνύναι,
ἀνακινεῖν,
ἀναθολοῦν. nam et
extra compositionem ultro citroque significat, ut ἀνὰ
τόπον, ἀνὰ
στρατόν. itaque ova cum oleo
et vino ἀναδεδευμένα,
permixta et agitata vertere licebit: ita ut tale fere hoc ferculum
fuisse videatur, (sed densius tamen) quale apud nos ius est cui vulgo a
vino calido nomen. neque enim ova integra permanent, sed franguntur
agitanturque. Hermolaus primum non recte exaphetà et pnictà confundit.
deinde pnicta interpretatur, quae in aquam calidam mittuntur
immergunturque cum garo, etc. hoc quoque perperam, ut ex Galeni et
Aeginetae verbis iam recitatis facile percipitur. |
Galen
in XI book of De simplicium medicamentorum temperamentis et
facultatibus when disserting about the eggs writes that it is useful
to apply on burns both only the egg white placed on a cloth of soft wool
and the whole egg beaten along with the yolk, anadeúsas. Anadeúein,
phurâin, maláttein - To dampen, to soak, to soften,
Hesychius. Deúein, bréchein,
Guarino: that is, to
irrigate, to dampen. In fact the composed verb anadeúein - to
dampen, to water - seems to mean a blending done on the whole,
especially when a substance is damp or liquid (as if ánø kaì kátø
kaì dià pántos ghignoménë - as if it were happening over and
down and through the whole). In fact sometimes the preposition anà
in a composed word has this meaning, as in the verbs anaphurân -
to mix, anamgnúnai - to mix together, anakineîn - to
shake, anatholoûn - to trouble. In fact also out of a composed
word it means beyond and hence, as anà tópon - everywhere, anà
stratón - anywhere. Insofar the eggs anadedeuména with oil
and wine will be allowed to translate them with mixed and beaten:
so that it would seem that this course were practically equivalent (but
nevertheless thicker) to a certain broth we have and which commonly
receives the name from the warm wine. And in fact the eggs don't keep
entire, but are scrambled and shaken. Ermolao in first place erroneously
confuses the exaphetá and the pnictá. Then he thinks
that the pnictá are those put in warm water and dipped along
with sauce of fish, etc. And also this in an incorrect way, as it can be
easily inferred from the words of Galen and Paul of Aegina just quoted. |
Pnictà
Galenus vocat quod praefocari videantur dum certo genere coquuntur, etc.
Caelius: qui nec ipse verbi ἀναδεύειν
vim animadvertit. Pnictòn vocant etiam quoddam obsonandae carnis genus.
quod equidem reor haud multum distare ab eo quod anábraston appellant,
Hermolaus. |
Galen
calls them pnictá since it seems that are suffocated when cooked
in a certain way, etc., Lodovico Ricchieri: but not even he realizes
the meaning of the verb anadeúein. They call pnictòn
also a kind of meat course. Really I believe that it doesn't differ too
much from that they call anábraston - boiled, Ermolao Barbaro. |
Nos huiusmodi
genus cocturae appellamus verdempffen, quoniam vase operto et incluso
intus vapore veluti suffocari videatur quod intus coquitur. unde etiam
ova pnicta non inepte puto Germanice dixeris verdempffte eyer. Ad ova
pnicta coquenda Galenus oleo utitur, nos butyro, Brasavolus. Suspicor
autem edulium non aliud ab ipso intelligi, quam in quo ova integra
relinquantur. audio enim in Italia ova parari, ita ut eis in vas purum
stanneum plerunque evacuatis, superinfundatur parum aceti, vini, et olei
aut butyri, ut ova integantur. coquunt autem donec album densari supra
vitellos et albescere coeperit. Sed haec pnictà Graecorum non esse ex
praedictis patet. |
We
call this manner of cooking verdempffen since what is cooked
inside of a covered pot, and with the vapor locked up inside, almost
seems to be suffocated. Then
I think that in German also the eggs pnictà you could rightly
call them as verdempffte Eyer - smothered eggs. To cook the
smothered eggs Galen uses oil, we use butter, Antonio Brasavola. I have
the suspicion that Brasavola wants to mean a course not different from
that in which the eggs are left entire. In fact I hear that in Italy
they are prepared in such a way that, after having mostly emptied them
in a clean tin container, is poured on a little bit of vinegar, wine,
oil or butter so that the eggs become covered. And they cook them until
the white hardened over the yolks and started to become white. But it is
clear from the aforesaid things that these eggs don't correspond to the pnictà
of Greeks. |
¶
Pars II. De ovorum salubritate simpliciter. Cibos quot modis iuvent ova,
notum est. Nullus est alius cibus qui in aegritudine alat neque oneret,
simulque vim potus (quidam legunt vini usum) et cibi habeat, Plin.
Recentia alimentum sunt sanguini proximum, R. Moses. Temperamentum ovi (Galenus
hoc non de ovo, sed de albumine scribit. albumen quidem mole sua
vitellum in ovo superat, ut totum ovum corporis temperati respectu
frigidius existimari possit, etsi Aggregator[2]
absolute calidum faciat) frigidius est corpore temperato. refrigerat
enim temperate, et sine morsu desiccat, Serapio. Temperata sunt ova: sed
albumen ad frigiditatem declinat, vitellus ad caliditatem. utraque
humida sunt, praecipue tamen albumen, Avicenna. |
¶
Section 2 - Only about the
salubriousness of the eggs. It is known in how many ways the eggs
become useful for the foods. No other food is existing able to feed during an
illness, and which doesn't make heavy, and at the same time is endowed
with the energy of a drink (some instead of vim read vini
- wines, wine's employment) and of a food. The fresh ones are a food
approaching as characteristics to those of the blood, Rabbi Moses. The
temperament of an egg (Galen writes what follows not about the egg, but
the egg white. In fact in an egg the albumen overcomes as volume that of
the yolk, so that the egg in its totality could be considered as more
cold in comparison to a temperate body, although Symphorien Champier
thinks it as quite warm) is more cold than a lukewarm body. In fact it
refreshes fairly well and dries without giving pain, Serapion. The eggs
are lukewarm: but the egg white tends to be cold, the yolk tends to be
warm. Both are damp, nevertheless above all the egg white is so,
Avicenna. |
¶
Ova, ut author est Galenus, alimentum humens conferunt, In libro de
ptisana. Multum nutriunt, Methodi 8. Victum plenum faciunt, In Aphorismos.
Velociter nutriunt propter suae substantiae subtilitatem. Ova cum
materia et nutrimentum omnium avium existant, necesse est ut validissimi
et multi sint nutrimenti. totum enim assimilatur sanguini, etc. Isaac.
Aliquando vim carnis retinent, ut scribit Rasis. Nutriunt secundum omnes
sui partes, praesertim vitellos, ita ut ex eis nulla fere pars
excrementitia sit, Nic. Massa. Ova, praesertim vitelli, valde
corroborant cor. sunt enim naturae temperatae, et cito in sanguinem
vertuntur, et parum superflui relinquunt: et sanguinem generant subtilem
et clarum: hoc est conforme{m} sanguini quo nutritur cor, Avicenna in
libro de medicinis cordialibus. commendat autem ova ex gallina, perdice,
phasiano, starna. Ova temperata dicuntur, albumine scilicet et
vitello simul sumptis: quorum alioqui alterum per se ad calidum, alterum
ad frigidum inclinat, Nic. Massa.
Ova humectant et hecticis[3]
conferunt, Ant. Gazius. Boni succi sunt, De euporistis. Crassi et boni
succi, et humorum acrimoniam infr{a}enant, De victu in morbis acutis[4].
Non dura bene parata et cocta, generant bonum humorem, medium
inter crassum et tenuem, De dissolutione continui[5]. |
The
eggs, as Galen writes, supply a damp food, in the treatise De ptisana.
They nourish quite a lot, book VIII of Methodus medendi. They
make complete a food, In Hippocratis aphorismos commentarii. They
nourish quickly because of the delicacy of their composition. The eggs,
since are representing the moulding substance and the nourishment of all
bird's embryos, it is necessary that they have a very strong and
abundant nourishing power. In fact the whole turns into blood, etc., Isaac Judaeus.
Sometimes they have the energy of the meat, as Razi writes. They
nourish with all their parts, above all the yolks, so that almost no
part of them flows unused in the excrements, Nicola Massa. The eggs,
mainly the yolks, strengthen quite a lot the heart. In fact they are of
temperate nature, and quickly turn into blood, and leave a little
residue: and give origin to a fluid and clear blood: this is proper for
the blood by which the heart is fed, Avicenna in the treatise De
medicinis cordialibus. He recommends the eggs of hen, partridge,
pheasant, grey
partridge. They are said temperate eggs when obviously
the albumen and the yolk are taken together: on the other hand one of
them tends for nature to the warmth, the other tends to the cold, Nicola
Massa. The eggs hydrate and are good for those people having a
continuous fever, Antonio Gazio. They have a dense and good composition,
Euporista of Oribasius. They have a dense and good composition
and curb the harshness of the humours, in the treatise De diaeta in
morbis acutis secundum Hippocratem. Not hard, well prepared and
cooked they produce a good humor, fifty-fifty road among dense and fluid,
De dissolutione continua. |
[1] L’aggettivo greco pniktós significa soffocato, strangolato, cotto in vaso ben chiuso, stufato.
[2] Potrebbe trattarsi del medico francese Symphorien Champier nato nel 1471 o 1472 e morto nel 1539 o 1540, quindi contemporaneo di Gessner, galenista convinto, che si autodefinì aggregator, raccoglitore. Tra i suoi numerosi scritti si può proprio annoverare il Practica nova in medicina. Aggregatoris lugdunensis domini Simphoriani Champerii de omnibus morborum generibus: ex traditionibus grecorum, latinorum, arabum, penorum ac recentium auctorum: aurei libri quinque. Item ejusdem aggregatoris liber "De omnibus generibus febrium" (Venetiis: per heredum Octaviani Scoti ac sociorum, 1515).
[3] Hectica = febbre continua, dal greco hektikós = che ha un’abitudine, abituale, da cui hektikòs pyretós = febbre continua che porta alla consunzione.
[4] Due possibilità: De diaeta in morbis acutis secundum Hippocratem oppure In Hippocratis de acutorum victu commentarii IV.
[5] Un titolo praticamente equivalente di un’opera di Galeno riferito da Smith - Dictionary of Greek and Roman Biography and Mythology v. 2, page 213 - è il De dissolutione continua, sive De alimentorum facultatibus.