Ulisse Aldrovandi
Ornithologiae tomus alter - 1600
Liber
Decimusquartus
qui
est
de Pulveratricibus Domesticis
Book
14th
concerning
domestic
dust bathing fowls
transcribed by Fernando Civardi - translated by Elio Corti
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Quod
ad carnis temperiem attinet, sunt in quatuor [349] qualitatibus
temperati, quare multum alunt, et venerem augent, teste Isaac, qui alibi
etiam Capum avibus omnibus praefert, ut qui melius nutrimentum, et
perfectum generet sanguinem. Villanovanus Capos in cibo probat
circa aetatem sex, vel septem, vel octo mensium. |
As
to temperament
of the flesh, they have the four kind of humors of the temperament,
hence they nourish quite a lot and increase the sexual desire, as Isaac
Iudaeus
affirms, who also elsewhere prefers the capon to any bird, as that
giving rise to best nourishment and perfect blood. Arnaldus of Villanova
praises the capons as food when they are about 6-7-8 months aged. |
In
Gallinacei historia permulta, a nobis recitata sunt, quae omni harum
avium generi, tum salubritatis in cibo, tum apparatus ratione communia
sunt: itaque hic ea tantummodo, quae ad Capos privatim pertinent,
afferemus[1].
Quod modo ad coquendi, ac apparandi rationem attinet, haec sane varia
est, et pro cuiusque libitu instituta. Vel autem elixantur, vel assantur.
Iulius Alexandrinus inter recentiores scriptores Medicos illustris Capos
subsequenti modo elixans medici potius, quam coqui partes agit. Capum
prius per se elixat, huius pulpas, praecipue vero alarum, ac
pectunculorum cum apii una ac betae radicibus sumit, addit caseum, et
friati panis parum, ova sex circiter, uvarum passularum aliquid,
cinnamomum, zinziberis, piperis, {caryophillorum} <caryophyllorum>
quantum satis esse existimat, butyri cochlear magnum: componit omnia
simul, comminutis prius, quae comminui, tritis, quae teri debeant, in
massam, quam deinde in offas dividit figura, et magnitudine ovali fere.
Rapeolos, inquit, multi vocant, quod ex friatis prius id epuli genus
forte rapis concinnatum fuerit, dein minutim etiam concisis herbulis,
demum et animalium carne. Has tenui ex subacta farina, quam pastam vocat
aliquoties, folio seorsim singulas involvit offulas, eodem Capi iure
recoquit: exemptis, patinaeque iniectis caseum infriat, et calidi
affundit butyri satis. Est vero talis mixtura plurimae alimoniae, sed
quae sanguinem, ut ipsemet attestatur, inflammet, vitiosumque succum
generet, meatusque obstruat. Nostri vero coqui eiusmodi herbas, ut quae
ingratum potius, quam gratum saporem carni concilient, minime adijciunt,
sed vel simpliciter elixant, vel ex caseo recenti pil{l}ulas adijciunt,
et friatum caseum veterem superinspergunt: qui sane cibus gratissimus
est. |
In
the chicken's account I said a lot of things which are in common with
all the genus of these birds both regarding their healthfulness as food
and the methods of preparing them: hence at this point I will report
only what is specifically concerning the capons. And, as far as methods
of cooking and preparing is concerned, they are various indeed and
suited to the pleasure of whoever. In fact they are either boiled or
roasted: Iulius Alexandrinus,
renowned among recent medical writers, when boiling the capons in the
following way, he plays rather the part of physician than of cook. At
first he boils the capon alone, takes its soft flesh, but especially of
wings and breast along with roots of fennel
and beet, adds cheese and little breadcrumbs, more or less six eggs,
some raisins, and as much as he thinks enough of cinnamon,
ginger,
pepper, cloves,
a big spoon of butter, he puts them all together in kneading after first
minced what must be minced and crushed what must be crushed, and then he
divides the mixture in bites which have almost the shape and the size of
an egg. He says that many people call them radishes
because perhaps this kind of course was made with grated turnips, then
with thin chopped up herbs too, finally also with flesh of animals. He
separately wraps one by one these small bites in a sheet of pastry made
with kneaded flour, which sometimes he calls pasta, and he cooks them
again in the same capon broth: after he removed them from broth and put
them on a plate, he grates cheese upon and pours enough hot butter. In
truth this mixture is very nourishing, but it is such that it inflames
the blood, as he himself affirms, it produces a bad body fluid and
obstructing drain ways. In truth our cooks don't add these vegetables at
all because they give an unpleasant rather than a pleasant taste, but
either they simply cook them or add little balls of fresh cheese and
sprinkle grated old cheese, and in truth it is a very pleasant food. |
Molesta
vero etsi pariter, multique laboris assatio est, quam idem Iulius
Alexandrinus praescribit paulo post, elegans tamen, et laudanda, si
herbas eas ante nominatas excipias. Coques, inquit, eadem materia
conclusum integrum Capum, excepto quod alae, pedesque {iefracti} <infracti>,
et collum retorquentur in corpus, ut angustius iaceat: ovorum, luteis
duratis aliquot infarcies, ea configes {caryophillis}
<caryophyllis> binis, ternisve, singula salita prius, tum pruna
accipies, et si haec ad manus non sunt, uvae passae, aliquid, {limoniive}
<limonisve> tenuius concisi, aut utriusque partem, ova sex fere:
tudicula miscentur, agitanturque haec: tum butyri bene recentis
adijcitur pro Capi pinguedine plus minus, sed quod liquaminis tamen
instar efficiat, hoc madescet immersus intus Capus: postremo factum ex
eadem farina imponetur vasi operculum. Hoc modo immittitur furno
farinacea patella, sive olla, sive testa, sive escarium vas id, ovorum
prius albumine illitum. Si anniculus fuerit Capus, non ante tertiam
horam extrahi furno debet. Cautio erit, si quid furni calore agitatius
factum effundi visum fuerit, vulgata charta nostra texisse, statim id
reprimere effervescentiam illam solet. Calidum inferre mensae vult.
Nonnulli ante perfectam cocturam vini aliquid affundunt, convivisque iam
apposituri luteum ovi aceto dilutum adijciunt. Haec ille. |
But
to roast them it is troublesome and anyway requires alike a marked care,
and soon after Iulius Alexandrinus himself gives instructions of this,
however to roast them it is refined and praiseworthy if you rule out the
above-mentioned herbs. He says: you will cook an entire capon wrapped by
only its own skin, except that broken wings and legs and neck are turned
toward the body so that it may lie in a narrower place: you will stuff
it with some hard-boiled egg yolks piercing them with two or three
cloves, every thing has first to be salted, then you will take some
plums, and if these are not available, some raisins or lemon cut up
rather thin, or a little of both, more or less six eggs: they are mixed
and beaten using a crusher: then a certain quantity of very fresh butter
is added according to the fatness of the capon, however so that it
becomes as a juice, and the capon getting submerged in it has to become
soaked inside: finally a pot-lid but made of flour has to be placed on
it. Prepared in this way, it is introduced in the oven into a floured
frying pan, or in a pot, or in an earthenware pot, or in a kitchenware first smeared with white of eggs. If the capon
is one year old do not remove it from the oven before three hours have
passed. You have to beware if it seems that something made rather
bubbling by the heat of the oven is pouring out, to have covered it with
our common paper usually stops such a bubbling. He says it
must be served hot. Some people pour on some wine before the
cooking is completed and when are about to present it to the guests they
add egg yolk diluted in vinegar. Thus far Alexandrinus. |
Nostris
coquis in veru assare Capones usitatum est, et cum vel malis aurantiis,
vel {limoniis} <limonibus> in frusta conscissis convivis exhibere.
Quod si vero sese offerat occasio, ut neque elixare, neque assare ad
ignem Capum queamus, uti fit in longo itinere, ubi saepe hospitia desunt,
tunc domo abeuntes chalybem ignitum nobiscum feremus, eumque in deplumem
Capum, ac exenteratum inijciemus, accurate uno, alterove mantili
obvolventes, ne calor evanescat: sic enim esui aptum reddemus etiam
inter equitandum, modo meminerimus subinde alitem versare. Verumenimvero
tetro inficietur odore, sed ferendo tamen, ac grato famelicis. Iam de
preparationis varietate dicendum. |
Our
cooks are in the habit of roasting capons on spit and of presenting them
to guests with either sweet oranges or lemons cut into little pieces.
But if it happens that we don't want either to boil or roast a capon on
fire, as it happens on a long journey
when often hotels are lacking, then leaving home we will carry with us
an object of red-hot steel and place it into the plucked and
disemboweled capon, wrapping it carefully in one or two towels so that
heat is not lost: for in this way we will make it fit for be eaten even
while we are riding, if we only remember to turn the bird repeatedly.
But truly it will be soaked by a repugnant smell, but bearable and
pleasant for those people who are hungry. Now we have to speak about the
various ways of preparing it. |
Mirause[2]
Catellanicum[3]
lauti genus cibi est a Platina his verbis descriptum: Catellani
gens quidem lauta, et quae ingenio, ac corpore Italicae solertiae haud
multum dissimili<s>[4]
habetur, obsonium, quod mirause illi vocant, sic condiunt: Capos, aut
pullastras, aut Pipiones, bene exenteratos et lotos in veru collocant,
volvuntque ad focum tantisper quoad semicocti fuerint. Inde exemptos, ac
{tessalatim} <tessellatim> divisos in ollam indunt: amygdalas
deinde tostas sub cinere calido, abstersasque lineo panno terunt. His
buccellas aliquot panis {subtosit} <subtosti> addunt, mixtaque cum
aceto, et iure per cribrum setaceum transmittunt. {Postea}
<Posita> in ollam haec omnia {inspersoque} <inspersaque>[5]
cinnamo, zinzibere, et saccaro multo, tamdiu effervere simul in car{bo}nibus[6]
procul a flamma, lento igne permittunt, quo ad iustam cocturam
pervenerint, miscendo semper cum cochleari, ne seriae adhaereant. Hoc
nihil suavius e<di>sse memini. Multi
est alimenti: tarde concoquitur, hepar, et renes concalefacit, corpus
obesat, ventrem ciet. |
The
Catalan mirause is a kind of sumptuous food described by Platina
by these words: The Catalans,
a polished people indeed and who are thought not very dissimilar in
character and body traits from Italic ingeniousness, season in the
following way a dish they call mirause: they place on the spit capons,
or pullets, or pigeons well cleaned from entrails and well washed, and
turn them on the fire until are half cooked. After removed them from
fire and squared them off, they place them into a pot: then mince
almonds toasted under hot ash and cleaned with a flax cloth. They add
morsels of just toasted bread, and pass the things mixed with vinegar
and broth through a horsehair sieve. After they placed into a pot all
these ingredients and sprinkled with cinnamon, ginger and a lot of sugar,
they let them boil together with meat away from flame on a slow heat
until they did reach a right cooking, stirring all the time with a spoon
so that they don't stick to the pot. I don't remember to have eaten
something sweeter than this dish. It is very nourishing: it is slowly
digested, heats liver and kidneys, fattens the body, moves the bowels. |
[1] Lo sforzo di Aldrovandi nel modificare le parole di Gessner è stato minimo. Conrad Gessner Historia Animalium III (1555), pag. 412: In Gallinaceo F. permulta a nobis recitata sunt, quae omni gallinaceo generi tum salubritatis in cibo tum apparatus ratione communia sunt: hic ea quae ad capos privatim pertinent afferemus.
[2] Nel testo anonimo in catalano Sent Sovi (1324) suona come Mig-raust. Mastro Martino, dal quale il Platina ha tratto la ricetta, in italiano medievale lo chiama Mirrause e Roberto di Nola nel suo testo in catalano scrive Mirraust. Mig raust in tedesco visigoto significa mezzo arrostito, come mi ha specificato Marie Josèphe Moncorgé in una preziosa e-mail del 16 agosto 2005: “En effet, mig raust = à moitié rôti, en allemand wisigoth. Comment ce mot a-t-il survécu jusque dans une recette catalane du 14e? En tous cas, mig raust devient mirrause chez Martino, mirrauste chez Robert de Nola, miraus chez Scappi.” – Nella trascrizione del testo di Roberto di Nola a mia disposizione (Lybre de doctrina Pera ben Servir: de Tallar: y del Art de Coch) sta scritto Mirraust, e non una volta sola, ma credo che il vocabolo possa considerarsi equivalente a Mirrauste.
[3] In Platina -
Libellus platine de honesta voluptate ac valitudine, Bononiae,
per Johannem Antonium Platonidem, 1499 - esiste solo catellonicum:
VI,12
Mirause catellonicum
VI,32 Patina catellonica
VI,41 Cibarium album catellionicum – che però suona catellonicum
nell’indice
VII,60 Carabazum catellonicum
VII,72 Leucophagum catellonicum
L’aggettivo sostantivato Catellani - e non Catelloni - è usato da Platina in Liber VI,12 – Mirause catellonicum – Catellani gens quidem lauta: et quae ingenio ac corpore italicae solertiae haud multum dissimilis habetur obsonium: quod mirause illi vocant: sic condiunt [...]
In Aldrovandi il mirause ricorre una sola volta e possiamo ipotizzare - ma solo ipotizzare - che egli abbia desunto l’aggettivo Catellanicum che lo accompagna dal suo maestro l’Ornitologo, cioè da Conrad Gessner.
Dal
momento che catellonicum potrebbe essere un’abituale variante di
catellanicum, il Catellanicum di Aldrovandi non viene corretto. E che
catellonicum possa essere una comune variante di catellanicum possiamo
arguirlo dal testo di Gessner in cui il mirause ricorre due volte - prima
come catellonicum e poi come catellanicum - salvo che Catellanicum
sia un puro errore tipografico: Conrad Gessner Historia Animalium III
(1555) pag. 389:
Ex capis aut pullastris Mirause Catellonicum, Platinae verbis describemus in
Capo F. - pag. 413:
Mirause Catellanicum: Catellani gens quidem lauta, et quae ingenio ac
corpore Italicae solertiae haud multum dissimilis habetur, obsonium, quod
mirause illi vocant, sic condiunt: [...] § La conferma a questa mia
decisione di accettare sia catellanicum che catellonicum mi
giunge dal Dr Thomas Gloning - Institut für Germanistische
Sprachwissenschaft, Università di Marburgo, Germania - il quale così mi ha
risposto con una e-mail del 17 settembre 2005: M.E. Milham, dans l'édition
de Platine, ne change pas _catellonicus_, donc je pense que c'est une forme
assez régulière dans le temps. Aussi,
la variation entre des differentes formes était plus grand à ce temps qu'aujourd'hui.
[4]
Conrad Gessner Historia Animalium III (1555), pag. 413:
Mirause Catellanicum: Catellani gens quidem lauta, et quae ingenio ac
corpore Italicae solertiae haud multum dissimilis habetur, obsonium, quod
mirause illi vocant, sic condiunt: Capos aut pullastras, aut pipiones bene
exenteratos et lotos, in veru collocant: volvuntque ad focum tantisper,
quoad semicocti fuerint. Inde exemptos, ac tessellatim divisos, in ollam
indunt. Amygdalas deinde tostas sub cinere calido, abstersasque lineo panno,
terunt. His buccellas aliquot panis subtosti addunt, mixtaque cum aceto et
iure, per cribrum setaceum transmittunt. Posita in ollam haec omnia,
inspersaque cinnamo, gingiberi ac saccaro multo, tandiu effervere simul in
carnibus procul a flamma lento igne permittunt, quoad ad iustam cocturam
pervenerint, miscendo semper cum cochleari, ne seriae adhaereant. Hoc nihil
suavius edisse memini. Multi
est alimenti, tarde concoquitur, hepar et renes concalefacit, corpus obesat,
ventrem ciet, Platina.
[5] Libellus platine de honesta voluptate ac valitudine, Bononiae, per Johannem Antonium Platonidem, 1499 - ha inspersaque, così come riportato da Conrad Gessner.
[6] Libellus platine de honesta voluptate ac valitudine, Bononiae, per Johannem Antonium Platonidem, 1499 - ha simul in carnibus, così come riportato da Conrad Gessner. – Anche l'edizione bolognese ha – come Aldrovandi - il successivo quo ad invece del quoad ad di Gessner.