Conrad Gessner

Historiae animalium liber III qui est de Avium natura - 1555

De Gallina

transcribed by Fernando Civardi - translated by Elio Corti

439

 


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¶ Ova frixa, oenogarata, {obelixa}[1] <ova elixa> liquamine, etc. Apicius 7. 17. Humelbergius sic legit. Ova frixa oenogaro (s<c>ilicet affuso inferuntur.) Ova elixa, liquamine, oleo, mero: vel ex liquamine, pipere, lasere. In ovis hapalis, nucleos infusos: suffundes mel, acetum: liquamine temperabis. Ova hapalà (inquit Humelbergius) vocat Apicius tenera et mollia, quaeque sine cortice et putamine cocta sunt in aqua: qualia et stomachum confortant, authore Scribonio Largo Compositione medicinali 104. Sed Scribonius loco iam citato, simpliciter ova hapalà commendat, nec dicit ea sine putamine in aqua coqui: et Dioscorides[2] hapalòn ovum molle appellat, hoc est medium inter sorbile et durum, ut ipse interpretatur: et nos supra quoque ex aliorum sententia retulimus. Tyropatina[3]: Accipies lac, adversus quod patinam aestimabis: temperabis lac cum melle quasi ad lactantia, (id est lactaria, Humelbergius) ova quinque ad sextarium mittis: sed ad heminam ova tria<.> in lacte dissolvis, ita ut unum corpus facias: in cumana colas, et igni lento coques: cum duxerit ad se, piper aspergis et inferes.

¶ The fried eggs seasoned with sauce of wine and fish, the eggs cooked with sauce of fish etc. of Apicius VII,17, Gabriel Hummelberg interprets them as follows. Fried eggs with sauce of wine and fish (that is, they are served after have been sprinkled with the sauce). Eggs cooked with sauce of fish, oil, pure wine: or seasoned with sauce of fish, pepper, silphium. In the coddled eggs with inside the yolks: you will sprinkle honey, vinegar: you will season with sauce of fish. Apicius calls hapalà (Hummelberg says) the tender and soft eggs and cooked in water without membranes and without shell: such eggs strengthen also the stomach, Scribonius Largus reports this  in the paragraph 104 of Compositiones medicamentorum. But Scribonius in the just quoted passage simply recommends the coddled eggs, and he doesn't say that they must be cooked in water without shell: and Dioscorides calls hapalòn the soft egg, that is a halfway between that to be sipped and that hard-cooked, as Scribonius himself translates, and as also I reported previously according to the point of view of others. Tiropatina - Dish of Tyros. You will get some milk and you will consider the size of the dish according to it: you will mix the milk with honey up to reduce it almost a dairy (that is lactaria, Hummelberg), in a sextarius [500 ml] you put five eggs, but three in a hemina [250 ml]. Dissolve them in the milk in order to produce an unique mass: strain in a bowl of Cuma and you will simmer: when it will be hardened sprinkle pepper and you will serve.

Ova sphongia ex lacte[4]: Ova quatuor, lactis heminam, olei unciam, in se dissolvis, ita ut unum corpus facias. in patellam subtilem adiicies olei modicum, facies ut bulliat, et adijcies (oleo bullienti) impensam (mixtionem iam dictam ex ovis, lacte et oleo) quam parasti. una parte cum fuerit coctum, in disco vertes, melle perfundis: piper aspergis et inferes, Haec omnia Apicius. Humelbergius ova sphongia interpretatur cibum qui ovorum formam prae se ferat, et spongiosum, id est ad modum spongiae rarum, tenerum et inflatum. Nostri hoc simile edulium vocant ein bratne milch: Graece Latineque oogala dici potest. quanquam Caelius, Pultem (inquit) ex ovis et lacte concinnatam oogala dicunt medicae rei studiosi. Laudatur hoc inter cibos dysentericorum ab Aetio, si bene memini.

Sponge milk eggs: You dissolve together four eggs, a hemina [250 ml] of milk, an ounce [27.28 g] of oil so to produce an unique mass: you will put in a thin frying pan a little bit of oil, you will do so that it fries and you will put (on the frying oil) the compound (the just said mixture of eggs, milk and oil) you have prepared. When the whole will be cooked from a side you will put it turned in a dish, you pour some honey, you sprinkle it of pepper and you will serve. Apicius tells all this. Gabriel Hummelberg means as sponge eggs a food which has to exhibit the shape of the eggs and a spongy consistence, that is, rarefied, soft and swollen like a sponge. Our fellow countrymen call a dish similar to this ein bratne milch: in Greek and in Latin can be said oogala - milk eggs, although Lodovico Ricchieri is saying: The scholars of medicine call oogala a mixture prepared with eggs and milk. This preparation is praised by Aetius of Amida among the foods for those people suffering of dysentery, if I well remember.

Ova decoquuntur in aqua, vel iure carnis, integra, sine corticibus, quae sapida et optima sunt, praesertim si cum saccharo et cinnamomo condiantur. Sunt et qui in sartagine primo modo pauxilla ova primum pertractata, in aqua simplici, iuncto pauxillo saccharo vel aqua rosacea percoquunt, quae ego non vitupero. Fit etiam ex eis laudatissimum ferculum, si confusa in iure carnium comedantur, cum quibus conducit modicum aceti, vel succi uvae acerbae ponere. Ego tamen in senibus et convalescentibus vini aromatici aut Malvatici optimi portionem aliquam cum saccaro et cinnamomo libentissime porrigo. Utcunque parentur, semper portiunculam salis addere oportet, cum sic facilius et digerantur, et a stomacho etiam descendant, Nic. Massa in epistolis.

The eggs are cooked in water or in broth of meat, whole, without shell, and so prepared they are tasty and excellent, above all if seasoned with cane sugar and cinnamon. There are also some people who, after previously handled a little bit the eggs in frying pan according to the first manner, are well cooking them in simple water adding very little sugar or very little water of roses, and I don't despise them. By them can also be obtained a very appreciated course if they are eaten mixed in broth of meat, and it is useful to put together a little bit of vinegar or of juice of sour grape. Nevertheless in elderly and in convalescents people I add very gladly a portion of very good aromatized wine or of mallow wine. Anyway they are prepared, it is proper to add always a little bit of salt, since so they are digested more easily and also abandon the stomach, Nicola Massa in Epistolae Medicinales et Philosophicae.

¶ Ex Platina. Ovorum albore utimur in condituris quorundam eduliorum ac bellariorum. Iusculum croceum e vitellis ovorum cum agresta, iure vituli aut capi, pauco croci, etc. describitur a Platina 6. 44. Frictella quomodo fiat ex albamento ovorum, polline et caseo recenti, leges apud eundem lib. 9. cap. 3.

¶ From Platina. We use the egg white to season some courses and desserts. A saffron colored little broth gotten from egg yolks with agresta - verjuice, broth of calf or of capon, etc. is described by Platina in VI,44. How a fritter is prepared with egg white, superfine flour and fresh cheese you can read still in Platina in the book IX I chapter 3.

¶ Quae sequuntur ab eodem authore omnia sunt, lib. 9. cap. 19. et deinceps prodita. De ovis agitatis et confractis: Ova cum modico aquae et lactis bene agitata, et confracta aut tudicula aut cochleari, caseo trito commiscebis. Mixta, ex butyro vel oleo coques. Suaviora erunt, si et parum cocta, et dum coquuntur, nunquam voluta fuerint. Herbacei colores si voles, his betae ac petroselini plusculum, succi buglossi, menthae. amaraci, salviae parum addes. Aliter: Easdem herbas concisas, et frictas modicum in butyro aut oleo, superiori impensae admiscebis, ac coques. {Nutriunt haec, tarde concoquuntur, hepar iuvant, obstructiones et calculum generant.} <Nutriunt haec: tarde concoquit{ur} epar, iuvant oppil{l}ationes & calculum generant.>[5] Ova frictellata: In patellam ferventem oleo aut butyro, ova recentia et integra, abiecto putamine, indes: lentoque igne decoques, oleo semper, praesertim cochleari aut tudicula suffundendo. Ubi alba esse coeperint, cocta scito. Durioris concoctionis propter fricturam haec putant medici.

¶ What follows is entirely drawn from the same author, book IX chapter 19, and is sequentially reported. Beaten an broken eggs: By an olives-squeezer or a spoon you will mix with shredded cheese some eggs which have been well beaten and shattered together with a little bit of water and milk. After having mixed them you will cook with butter and oil. They will be more tasty both if little cooked and never stirred while cooking. If you want them grass colored you will add a fair amount of beet and parsley, a little bit of juice of bugloss, mint, sweet marjoram, sage. Other manner of preparing them: You will mix the same herbs shredded and just fried in butter or in oil with the previous mixture and you will put for cooking. The eggs so prepared are nourishing: the liver has difficulty in digesting them, they are good for intestinal obstructions and are cause of calculi. Eggs pancakes- shaped. You will pour fresh and whole eggs in a hot frying pan with oil and butter after you removed the shell: and you will properly cook them on slow fire, sprinkling oil all the time above all with a spoon or with an olives-squeezer. When they will start to appear white, be aware that they are cooked. The physicians believe that they are of more difficult digestion since have been fried.

Ova elixa: In ferventem aquam ova recentia, abiecto folliculo indes. concreta ubi erunt, statim eximes. tenella esse debent, ac saccharo, aqua rosacea, aromatibus dulcibus, agresta aut succo malarancij suffundes. Sunt qui et tritum caseum inspergant: quod nec mihi nec Phosphoro placet, qui tali edulio persaepe vescimur. sine caseo enim optimum ac suavissimum est. Aliter: Ova in lacte aut in vino dulci coques, eo modo quo ante. Verum de caseo nulla fiat mentio. plus alit hoc: etsi ad {phlegmonen} <phlegmonem> sanguinem ducit. Ova fricta: Ova recentia diu coquendo dura facies. ablatis deinde putaminibus, ova ipsa ita per medium scindes, ut nullibi albamentum comminuatur. Exempta vitella, partim cum bono caseo tum veteri tum recenti, et uva passa contundes, partim reservabis ad pulmentum colorandum. Parum item petroselini, amaraci, menthae minutatim concisae, addes. Sunt qui et duos albores ovorum aut plures cum aromatibus indant. Hac impensa albamenta ovorum repleta et conclusa, lento igne in oleo friges. Frictis, moretum ex reliquis vitelli et uva passa simul tunsis, ac ex agresta et sapa dissolutis, addito gingibere, caryophyllo, cinnamo, infundes: efferveantque paululum cum ipsis ovis, facies. Hoc plus mali in se habet quam boni.

Boiled eggs: You will pour fresh eggs in hot water after you removed their shell. When they will be hardened, immediately you will remove them. They have to be rather soft, and you will pour above them sugar, water of roses, sweet aromas, agresta – verjuice - or orange juice. There are some people sprinkling them with minced cheese, a thing not pleasant neither to me nor to Fosforo, who are eating this course very often. In fact without cheese it is excellent and very tasty. In another manner: You will cook the eggs in the aforesaid manner in milk or in sweet wine. In truth the cheese has not to be mentioned at all. It nourishes more: even if leading the blood to become inflamed. Fried eggs: You will have to harden some fresh eggs cooking them for a long time. Then, after the shells have been removed, you will cut in half the eggs themselves so that the egg white doesn't break in any point. After the yolks have been removed you will crush them partly with cheese of good quality both old and fresh and with raisin, partly you will keep them available to give color to the dish. At the same time you will add a little bit of parsley, marjoram and finely chopped mint. There are some people putting also two or more egg whites with aromas. After having stuffed and leveled the egg whites with this mixture, you will fry in oil on slow fire. Once fried, you will put above them a bun gotten from the remnant yolks, crushed together with raisin, and dissolved in agresta and in cooked must with the addition of ginger, cloves, cinnamon: and you will do so that they boil a little bit together with the eggs themselves. All this carries more evil than good.

Ova in craticula: Ova tunsa in patellam extendes et coques, donec concreta plicari quadrifariam possint. Haec in quadrae modum redacta, in craticulam ad focum positam extendes. Ova deinde recentia, ablatis putaminibus, huic indes: {saccharumque} <saccharonque> et cinnamum, dum coquitur, insperges. Cocta convivis appones. Ova in veru: Veru bene calefacto, ova per longum transfiges, et ad ignem, ac si caro esset, torrebis. Calida sunt edenda. Stolidum inventum, et coquorum ineptiae ac ludi. Aliter: Ova recentia in cinere calido diligenter ad ignem volves, ut aequaliter coquantur. Exudare ubi coeperint, recentia et cocta putato, ac convivis apponito. Optima haec sunt, et cuivis apponi percommode possunt. Aliter: Ova recentia in ollam cum recenti aqua imposita, ubi parum ebullierint eximito atque edito. Optima enim sunt et bene alunt.

Grilled eggs: You will stretch beaten eggs in a frying pan and cook them until when, after hardened, they can be folded in four parts. After you gave them a square shape, you will stretch them on a grid placed on fire. Then you will add some fresh eggs without shell: and while this is cooking you will sprinkle sugar and cinnamon. Once cooked you will serve them to the guests at the dinner. Eggs on spit: After the spit is well heated, you will pierce through the eggs according to the length, and you will roast them on the fire as if they were meat. They have to be eaten warm. This is a silly gimmick, fruit both of stupidity and fun of cooks. In another way: You will turn over with care fresh eggs on hot ash near a flame so that they can evenly cook. When they will start to ooze, regard them as ready and cooked and serve them to the guests at the dinner. They are excellent and can be served very well to whoever. In another manner: When fresh eggs placed in a pot with fresh water will have boiled for few time, remove and eat them. In fact they are excellent and nourish well.


439


[1] Da http://www.fh-augsburg.de: 1. Ova frixa: oenogarata. - 2. Ova elixa: liquamine, oleo, mero vel ex liquamine, pipere, lasere. - 3. In ovis hapalis: piper, ligusticum, nucleos infusos. suffundes mel, acetum, liquamine temperabis.

[2] II,44. § Jean Ruel - e di conseguenza Pierandrea Mattioli – traducono hapalòn con molliculum. Mattioli, nella sua edizione in italiano (1585), traduce molliculum con "molle & tenero".

[3] Apicio, De re coquinaria VII,11. Dulcia domestica et melcae. - 7. Tyropatinam: accipies lac, adversus quod patinam aestimabis, temperabis lac cum melle quasi ad lactantia, ova quinque ad sextarium mittis, si ad heminam, ova tria. in lacte dissolvis ita ut unum corpus facias, in cumana colas et igni lento coques. cum duxerit ad se, piper adspargis et inferes. (da www.fh-augsburg.de)

[4] Apicio, De re coquinaria VII,11. Dulcia domestica et melcae. - 8. Ova spongia ex lacte: ova quattuor, lactis heminam, olei unciam in se dissolvis, ita ut unum corpus facias. in patellam subtilem adicies olei modicum, facies ut bull iat, et adicies impensam quam parasti. una parte cum fuerit coctum, in disco vertes, melle perfundis, piper adspargis et inferes. (da www.fh-augsburg.de)

[5] Insomma, tra tutte le azioni negative di queste uova così preparate, si salverebbe il fegato, proprio il fegato che è il laboratorio attraverso il quale tutte le sostanze ingerite debbono transitare. Non solo si salva, addirittura ne riceve dei benefici. Allora - come discepolo di Esculapio - non ho potuto frenare la mia curiosità e ho confrontato il testo di Gessner e di Aldrovandi con l'unico testo del Platina a mia disposizione. E forse la cosa diventa ancora più intricata, ma a una lettura affrettata, non certo favorita dalla strana e carente punteggiatura di certi testi antichi. Ecco il testo del Platina in Libellus platine de honesta voluptate ac valitudine (Bononiae, per Johannem Antonium Platonidem, 1499). Questa ricetta si trova nel libro IX, capitolo 19: Nutriunt haec: tarde concoquitur epar iuvant oppillationes & calculum generant. – Se vogliamo una trascrizione più confacente, eccola: Nutriunt haec: tarde concoquit{ur} epar, iuvant oppil{l}ationes & calculum generant. – Come al solito è questione di una virgola, ma stavolta si aggiunge un concoquitur del Platina (invece di un corretto concoquit) trasformato da Gessner e Aldrovandi, o da chi per essi, in concoquuntur. Grazie a ciò, e alla fatidica virgola, agli occhi di Gessner e di Aldrovandi il fegato si salva e ne esce vittorioso, e si salva in un contesto che secondo il loro punto di vista sarebbe alquanto deleterio. Invece il Platina afferma che le uova così preparate sono nutrienti, il fegato fa fatica a digerirle, sono utili contro le ostruzioni intestinali, ma sono causa di calcolosi (non sappiamo se biliare oppure urinaria, tralasciando la calcolosi salivare, altrimenti verrei tacciato di ridondante perfezionismo). – Per cui, per puri motivi medici, sfuggiti ai miei due illustri colleghi, il testo viene emendato, con grande gioia del Platina.