Ulisse Aldrovandi

Ornithologiae tomus alter - 1600

Liber Decimusquartus
qui est 
de Pulveratricibus Domesticis

Book 14th
concerning
domestic dust bathing fowls

transcribed by Fernando Civardi - translated by Elio Corti

297

 


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Pullus in agresta. Pullum cum salita carne decoquito: ubi semicoctus fuerit grana uvae, sublatis e medio vinaceis, in cacabum ferventem indito: [297] petroselinum, et mentham minutatim concidito, piper, et crocum in pulverem conterito. Haec omnia in cacabum, ubi pullastra cocta fuerit, coniicito, et patinam statim facito. Hoc obsonio nihil salubrius. Admodum{,} enim alit<,> facile concoquitur, stomacho, cordi, hepati, renibus convenit, ac bilem reprimit, ex Platina[1].

Chicken in verjuice. Cook the chicken with salty flesh for a long time: when it is half cooked, put in the hot pot some grape-seeds taken from the center of marcs: chop up properly parsley and mint, grind pepper and saffron. Throw all these ingredients in the pot where meanwhile the pullet has cooked, and immediately prepare a course. Nothing is more healthful than this food. For it is extremely nourishing, is easily digested, is good for stomach, heart, liver, kidneys, and suppresses anger. Drawn from Platina.

Et mox[2]: Pullus assus: Pullum bene depilatum, exinanitum, et lotum assabis. Asso, atque in patinam imposito, antequam refrige<r>at, aut succum mali medici[3], aut agrestam cum aqua rosacea, saccaro, ac cinnamomo bene trito infundes convivisque appones. Hoc Bucino[4] non displicet, qui acria (acida) simul ac dulcia appetit, ut bilem reprimat, et corpus obeset. Idem alibi[5] praescribit quomodo paretur pastillus ex quavis carne animantis cicuris, ut vituli, Capi, Gallinae, et similium.

And soon after: Roast chicken: You will roast a well plucked, emptied and washed chicken. When roasted and placed in a course dish, before it cools you will pour on it either juice of an apple from Media – of orange, or better, of citron –, or verjuice with rose water, syrup of cane sugar and cinnamon well minced, and you will serve to guests. This recipe is not displeasing to Bucinus who is greedy for things which are at the same time pungent (sour) and sweet, to repress anger and fatten up the body. Still Platina elsewhere gives instructions about how to prepare a pie based on any kind of meat from domestic animal, as calf, capon, hen and similar.

E pullastris pastilli ex libro Germanico Baltasaris Stendelii, ut citat Ornithologus: Pastillo confecto pullastras rite paratas membris confractis impone: et pro magnitudine pastilli tria, aut quatuor ova, addito salem, et Zinziber satis abunde. Per aestatem convenit etiam uvas passas corinthiacas addi, ut Caponibus quoque, et aliquid butyri recentis. Operculum etiam facies quale pro pastillo e Capo praescribitur, et ovis illines: horis duabus coques. Quod si frigidum habere malis, ius per foramen superius effundes, et pingui separato flatu, idem rursus affundito. Cum pulli in olla {operti} <operta>[6] coquuntur, vel assantur potius in butyro, affuso etiam vino modico cum semiassi sunt, nostri hoc genus cocturae stoffare vocant, Germani verdempffen[7], latine forsan suffocare dixeris, quemadmodum ova pnicta[8], id est, suffocata Graeci efferunt.

Pies of pullets drawn from the book in German of Balthasar Staindl, as the Ornithologist is quoting: After you prepared the wrap of pastry, put on it the pullets prepared as usual with disjointed limbs: and three or four eggs according to the size of pastry wrap, add salt and a fair bit of ginger. In summer it is worthwhile to add also raisins of Corinth, as to capons too, and some fresh butter. You will also prepare a covering, as prescribed for capon pie, and sprinkle it with eggs: let cook for two hours. But if you prefer it cold, pour out the broth through the upper hole and after the fat has been separated with a blow, pour it on again. When chickens are cooked in closed pot, or when are roasted preferably in butter with also a sprinkling of a little wine when half roasted, our people call this kind of cooking stufare - to stew, the Germans verdempffen, in Latin perhaps you could say suffocare - to smother, as the Greeks call pnictà - cooked in a well closed pot - the eggs, that is, smothered.

Sunt qui uvarum acinos cum pullo in olla operta coquant: deinde conterunt<,> exprimunt, et rursus ad pullum affundunt cum butyro{:}<.> Et rursus: Pullos rite paratos in ollam inde: vinum, et ius carnium affunde, cum modico {sale} <salis[9]>, et aromatici pollinis crocei: quod si iusculum crassius desideras, segmenta duo panis albi tosta bullienti iuri iniicito, cum ferbuerint, extractis una cum iecore tritis exprimito succum colando per aromaticum pollinem, et rursus affundito, et perfecte coqui sinito. Sunt qui limonum segmenta cum pullis elixant, quae deinde iis, cum inferuntur, imponunt.

There are some people cooking grapes along with the chicken in a pot closed with cover: then they crush, squeeze and pour them again on the chicken with butter. And another recipe of Balthasar Staindl: Put inside a pot the chickens prepared as usual: add wine and meats’ broth with some salt and aromatic flour of saffron: but if you desire a more fat little broth put in the broth when boiling two toasted slices of white bread, when they come to the boil, after they have been taken out and minced with the liver, squeeze the juice and strain it through the aromatic flour, and put it back in the pot, and let it cook properly. There are some people cooking slices of lemon with chickens and then put slices on them when are served.

Cibarium contusum: Gallinam, vel Caponem percoquito, donec carnes bene mollescant, et in pila pulpam una cum ossibus contunde: quod si parum carnis fuerit, licebit etiam segmenta albissimi panis simul conterere. Tum una cum iure omnia per aeneum vas colatorium exprimes, modicum generosi vini, et croci, aromatumque quantum satis videbitur, adiicies, et coques aliquandiu, cum inferre volueris panem tostum subiicies, interdum ova extra testam in aqua cocta impones. Reliquias etiam Gallinarum, et Caponum a mensa, carnes scilicet cum ossibus aliqui contundunt, et ferculum parant: cui nonnulli elixum hepar agninum contusum adiiciunt. Hic cibus puerperis, et iis qui venam secuerint, convenit, ex ante dicto Stendelio.

Crushed dish: Cook a hen or a capon for a long time until the meats are quite soft and crush the pulp with the bones in a mortar: but if there is little meat it is possible to crush together some chunks of very white bread. Then strain the whole along with the broth through a bronze sieve, you will add some good wine, and a quantity of saffron and spices you think enough, and you will cook for some time, and when you will serve, place beneath toasted bread, sometimes you will place over shelled eggs cooked in water. Some also crush leftovers of hens and capons, that is, bones with meat, and prepare a course: to which some add lamb’s liver boiled and crushed. This food is suitable for those who have just born a child and for those who have been bled. From aforesaid Balthasar Staindl.

In pastillum Gallinaceum ex Platina[10]: Cristas pullorum trifariam, iecuscula quadrifariam dividito: testiculos integros relinquito, laridum tessel<l>atim concidito, nec tundito: duas aut tres uncias vitulini adipis <minutatim concidito>, <aut loco adipis>[11] medullam bubulam, aut vitulinam addito. Zinziberis, cinnami, sacchari, quantum satis erit sumito. Haecque omnia cum cerasis acribus (acidis) ac siccis ad quadraginta misceto, inditoque in pastillum ad id apte ex farina subacta factum. In furno, aut <sub textu>[12] in foco decoqui potest. Semicoctum ubi fuerit, duo vitellos ovorum disfractos, modicum croci, et agrestae superinfundes.

For a chicken’s pie drawn from Platina: Divide in three parts the combs of the chickens and their livers in four parts: keep the testicles entire, cut up the lard into small squares and do not pound it: cut up into small morsels two or three ounces [around 50-75 g] of calf fat, or in place of fat add marrow of ox or calf. Take as much as enough of ginger, cinnamon and sugar. And mix all these things with about forty sour (acid) and dry cherries, and put them in a suitable wrap of pastry made with kneaded flour. This can be cooked in oven or on fire under a dish towel. When it is half cooked pour on two beaten egg yolks, some saffron and verjuice.

Ius Gallinaceum cum amygdalis: Cape tibi selibram amygdalarum, tres ovorum vitellos exiguos, iecuscula Gallinarum, panis e simila ad modum duorum ovorum, cremae lactis, quantum semiobolo emitur, ius Gallinae veteris perfecte coctum. Tum amygdalas contusas cum iure percolando exprime, et da. Vel pone prius in iure sic parato pullum prius coctum, et modice simul effervere sinito, ut densiusculum fiat, et modicum cinnamomi<,> {cariophyllorum} <caryophyllorum>[13], salisque addito. Baltasar Stendelius.

Broth of chicken with almonds: Take half a pound [around 160 g] of almonds, three small egg's yolks, hen’s livers, extra fine bread corresponding to two eggs, as much as milk cream can be brought with half an obol, broth of old hen properly boiled. Then squeeze the almonds minced with the broth filtering them through a strainer, and serve. Or firstly place in the broth thus prepared a previously boiled chicken, and let them boil together a little bit so that it becomes a bit more concentrated and add a little cinnamon, clove and salt. Balthasar Staindl.

Ex eodem ius viride pro Gallina, aut Pullo. Pyret<h>ro, samsucho, petroselino minutatim dissectis vinum affunde, simul agita, {saccarum} <saccaron>, et aromatis aliquid adde, et affunde iuri, in quo Gallina cocta est, nec amplius coquito, ne color viridis evanescat. Conditura pro Gallinis elixis: Gallinam elixam integram, vel in partes divisam, bene purgatam in ollam inde, permodicum aquae affunde cum pauco vino dulci, et butyri modicum adde, et pollinis aromaticis nonnihil de macere[14], cinnamomo, {cariophyllis} <caryophyllis>. Cura diligenter <ne>[15] diutius ad ignem maneat hoc ferculum, fit enim prorsus inutile. Tolles cum ad russum colorem Gallina vergit, et ius mediocre habet. Si dulce placuerit, {saccarum} <saccaron> per se, vel cum aromatibus adiicies.

A green broth for a hen or a young chicken, drawn from Balthasar Staindl. After Roman pellitory - or Mount Atlas daisy, marjoram and parsley have been finely grinded, pour wine over them, shake them jointly, add sugar and some spice, and pour in the broth in which the hen has cooked, and don’t cook her any further lest the green color disappears. Seasoning for boiled hens: Place in a pot an entire boiled hen or divided asunder and well polished up, pour very little water with little sweet wine and add some butter and a little bit of aromatic powder gotten from nutmeg or mace, cinnamon and cloves. Avoid carefully that this course remains too much time on fire, for it becomes quite unusable. You will remove it from fire when the hen is verging on red and has little broth. If you like it sweet, add sugar alone or with spices.

Aliud edulium de pullis vel Capis cum pane tosto etc. ex eodem. Ipse Germanice vocat Plutzte hu<e>ner. Pullos, aut Capos assos frustatim dissectos saccharo cum aromatibus condies, ac vino dulci perfundes, imponesque segmentis e pane albo tostis eodem vino dulci madentibus: frigidum impones.

Again from Balthasar Staindl Another food made with chickens or capons with toasted bread etc. He in German calls it plutzte huener. Season roasted and cut asunder chickens or capons with sugar along with spices and sprinkle them with sweet wine and place them on toasted slices of white bread soaked in the same sweet wine: you will serve cold.


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[1] De honesta voluptate liber 6 cap. 16. (Aldrovandi). Il riferimento è tratto da Conrad Gessner. - In Libellus platine de honesta voluptate ac valitudine, Bononiae, per Johannem Antonium Platonidem, 1499, questa ricetta si trova al capitolo 15.

[2] De honesta voluptate liber 6 cap. 17. (Aldrovandi). Il riferimento è tratto da Conrad Gessner. - In Libellus platine de honesta voluptate ac valitudine, Bononiae, per Johannem Antonium Platonidem, 1499, questa ricetta si trova al capitolo 16. § Aldrovandi manco l’ha visto il testo di Platina. Ha visto solo quello di Conrad Gessner, che invece del platiniano refrigerat ha l’inesistente refrigeat. Historia animalium III (1555) pag. 389: Et mox cap. 17. Pullus assus. Pullum bene depilatum, exinanitum et lotum assabis. asso, atque in patinam imposito, antequam refrige<r>at, aut succum mali medici, aut agrestam cum aqua rosacea, saccaro ac cinnamo bene trito infundes, convivisque appones. Hoc Bucino non displicet, qui acria (acida) simul ac dulcia appetit, ut bilem reprimat et corpus obeset.  § Conviene aggiungere che Aldrovandi manco deve aver fatto ricerche di cucina. Cita tutto quello che cita Gessner e basta, citando perciò - e ricitando - il tedesco Baltasar Staindl, tralasciando invece insigni italiani. Manco gli è passato per l’anticamera del cervello di riportare qualche ricetta di Bartolomeo Scappi, presunto Bolognese, conosciuto all’estero e non solo in Italia. Questo suggerimento mi è stato fornito da una persona competente, Marie Josèphe Moncorgé, in una e-mail del 16 settembre 2005: Le texte d'Aldrovandi, que vous m'avez envoyé, est très intéressant, car il donne une idée des auteurs qui sont considérés comme une référence à l'époque. Je suis donc très étonnée de voir qu'Aldrovandi, après avoir fait référence à Apicius pour l'époque antique, se contente de citer Platine et Staindl pour la période médiévale/Renaissance. A-t-il seulement copié le suisse Gessner? Dans ce cas, je comprend qu'Aldrovandi cite des auteurs allemands et des mots de vocabulaire culinaire allemand. Mais s'il a fait un travail personnel, comment expliquer que le savant qui a beaucoup vécu à Bologne ne cite pas les recettes du grand cuisinier du pape et originaire de Bologne: Bartolomeo Scappi (Opera, 1570)? Platine fait-il plus sérieux? C'est effectivement un intellectuel et non pas un cuisinier, bien que ses recettes sont celles du cuisinier Maestro Martino, ce qu'il reconnaît d'ailleurs. Encore merci pour ce texte, très intéressant.

[3] II,5 – de coctoneis – Coctonea dici cum de malis loquimur: et non coctona. Varronis ac Plinii auctoritate manifestum est: qui coctona inter ficus commemorant. [...] mala medica: quae vulgo narantia vocamus [...]. (Libellus platine de honesta voluptate ac valitudine, Bononiae, per Johannem Antonium Platonidem, 1499) § Probabilmente si tratta di un qui pro quo di Platina. La narantia dovrebbe etimologicamente corrispondere all’arancia, mentre il malum medicum fin dai tempi dei Romani corrispondeva al cedro. Siccome per Platina il malum medicum è l’arancia e prescrive una spremuta di mali medici, è giocoforza tradurlo con arancia, anche se un antico Romano avrebbe inteso una spremuta di cedro.

[4] La notizia è derivata da Conrad Gessner Historia Animalium III (1555) pag. 389, che a sua volta la deduce dal Platina: Hoc Bucino non displicet, qui acria (acida) simul ac dulcia appetit, ut bilem reprimat et corpus obeset. - It is difficult to determine whether this name is a mistake by Aldrovandi [by Platina!!!] for Dominicus Bucius, who wrote Quaesita III Medicinalia, juxta Hippocratis, et Galeni mentem examinata (ed. by A. Bucci, Venice, 1551; another ed., Leyden, 1577). A certain Bucinense (Niccolò degli Angeli) edited the Scriptores Rei Rusticae (Florence, 1515, 1521), but he is probably not referred to here. (Lind, 1963) § Niccolò Angeli, detto Angelo Buccinese, insigne latinista del XVI secolo, di Bùcine in provincia di Arezzo, nel Valdarno di Sopra.

[5] De honesta voluptate liber 6 cap. 9. (Aldrovandi). - In Libellus platine de honesta voluptate ac valitudine, Bononiae, per Johannem Antonium Platonidem, 1499, questa ricetta si trova al capitolo 10.

[6] Conrad Gessner Historia Animalium III (1555) pag. 389: Cum pulli in olla operta coquuntur, vel assantur potius in butyro, [...].

[7] Conrad Gessner Historia Animalium III (1555) pag. 389.

[8] L’aggettivo greco pniktós significa soffocato, strangolato, cotto in vaso ben chiuso, stufato.

[9] Conrad Gessner Historia Animalium III (1555) pag. 389: Et rursus ad idem, Pullos rite paratos in ollam inde, vinum et ius carnium affunde, cum modico salis et aromatici pollinis crocei.

[10] De honesta voluptate liber 6 cap. 38. (Aldrovandi). Il riferimento è tratto da Conrad Gessner. - In Libellus platine de honesta voluptate ac valitudine, Bononiae, per Johannem Antonium Platonidem, 1499, questa ricetta si trova al capitolo 37.

[11] Il testo emendato è presente sia in Gessner che in Platina.

[12] Il testo emendato è presente sia in Gessner che in Platina.

[13] Conrad Gessner Historia Animalium III (1555) pag. 390: [...] et modicum cinnamomi, caryophyllorum salisque addito, Baltasar Stendelius.

[14] Il sostantivo greco neutro indeclinabile máker oppure mákeir indica in Dioscoride l’arillo profumato della noce moscata. (Lorenzo Rocci). Arillo è l’involucro che si sviluppa attorno all'ovulo dei vegetali a partire dal funicolo, di aspetto generalmente carnoso e che permane ad avvolgere il seme, in parte o completamente, come per esempio quello rosso, ricco di sostanze zuccherine del tasso o albero della morte, Taxus baccata. § In latino il vocabolo greco suona macir in Plinio Naturalis historia XII,32: Et  macir ex India advehitur, cortex rubens radicis magnae, nomine arboris suae. § Pierandrea Mattioli fa una lunga disquisizione a proposito dell’identificazione sia del máker di Dioscoride che dell’equivalente macir di Plinio, ma per brevità accettiamo quanto riferito da Lorenzo Rocci, e accettiamo macere invece di macir, in quanto macer viene declinato da Mattioli come sostantivo latino maschile. § In italiano macir si è trasformato in macis, che è il nome commerciale dell'involucro carnoso – dell’arillo - che avvolge il seme della noce moscata: da fresco ha colore rosso vivo e diventa giallo rossastro quand'è essiccato.

[15] Conrad Gessner Historia Animalium III (1555), pag. 390: Cura diligenter ne diutius ad ignem maneat hoc ferculum.