Ulisse Aldrovandi
Ornithologiae tomus alter - 1600
Liber
Decimusquartus
qui
est
de Pulveratricibus Domesticis
Book
14th
concerning
domestic
dust bathing fowls
transcribed by Fernando Civardi - translated by Elio Corti
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Pullus in agresta.
Pullum cum salita carne decoquito: ubi semicoctus fuerit grana uvae,
sublatis e medio vinaceis, in cacabum ferventem indito:
[297] petroselinum, et mentham
minutatim concidito, piper, et crocum in pulverem conterito. Haec
omnia in cacabum, ubi pullastra cocta fuerit, coniicito, et patinam
statim facito. Hoc obsonio nihil salubrius. Admodum{,} enim alit<,>
facile concoquitur, stomacho, cordi, hepati, renibus convenit, ac bilem
reprimit, ex Platina[1]. |
Chicken
in verjuice.
Cook the
chicken with salty flesh for a long time: when it is half cooked, put in
the hot pot some grape-seeds taken from the center of marcs: chop up
properly parsley and mint, grind pepper and saffron. Throw all these
ingredients in the pot where meanwhile the pullet has cooked, and
immediately prepare a course. Nothing is more healthful than this food.
For it is extremely nourishing, is easily digested, is good for stomach,
heart, liver, kidneys, and suppresses anger. Drawn from Platina. |
Et mox[2]: Pullus assus: Pullum bene depilatum, exinanitum,
et lotum assabis. Asso, atque in patinam imposito, antequam
refrige<r>at, aut succum mali medici[3],
aut agrestam cum aqua rosacea, saccaro, ac cinnamomo bene trito infundes
convivisque appones. Hoc Bucino[4] non displicet, qui acria (acida) simul ac dulcia
appetit, ut bilem reprimat, et corpus obeset. Idem alibi[5] praescribit quomodo paretur pastillus ex quavis
carne animantis cicuris, ut vituli, Capi, Gallinae, et similium. |
And
soon after: Roast chicken:
You will roast a well plucked, emptied and washed chicken. When roasted
and placed in a course dish, before it cools you will pour on it either
juice of an apple from Media – of orange, or better, of citron
–, or verjuice with rose water, syrup of cane sugar and cinnamon
well minced, and you will serve to guests. This recipe is not
displeasing to Bucinus who is greedy for things which are at the same
time pungent (sour) and sweet, to repress anger and fatten up the body.
Still Platina elsewhere gives instructions about how to prepare a pie
based on any kind of meat from domestic animal, as calf, capon, hen and
similar. |
E pullastris pastilli ex libro Germanico
Baltasaris Stendelii, ut citat Ornithologus: Pastillo confecto
pullastras rite paratas membris confractis impone: et pro magnitudine
pastilli tria, aut quatuor ova, addito salem, et Zinziber satis abunde. Per
aestatem convenit etiam uvas passas corinthiacas addi, ut Caponibus
quoque, et aliquid butyri recentis. Operculum etiam facies quale pro
pastillo e Capo praescribitur, et ovis illines: horis duabus coques.
Quod si frigidum habere malis, ius per foramen superius effundes, et
pingui separato flatu, idem rursus affundito. Cum pulli in olla {operti}
<operta>[6] coquuntur, vel assantur potius in butyro, affuso
etiam vino modico cum semiassi sunt, nostri hoc genus cocturae stoffare
vocant, Germani verdempffen[7], latine forsan suffocare dixeris, quemadmodum ova
pnicta[8], id est, suffocata Graeci efferunt. |
Pies
of pullets
drawn from the book in German of Balthasar Staindl, as the
Ornithologist is quoting: After you prepared the wrap of pastry, put on
it the pullets prepared as usual with disjointed limbs: and three or
four eggs according to the size of pastry wrap, add salt and a fair bit
of ginger. In summer it is worthwhile to add also raisins of Corinth,
as to capons too, and some fresh butter. You will also prepare a
covering, as prescribed for capon pie, and sprinkle it with eggs: let
cook for two hours. But if you prefer it cold, pour out the broth
through the upper hole and after the fat has been separated with a blow,
pour it on again. When chickens are cooked in closed pot, or when are
roasted preferably in butter with also a sprinkling of a little wine
when half roasted, our people call this kind of cooking stufare -
to stew, the Germans verdempffen, in Latin perhaps you could say suffocare
- to smother, as the Greeks call pnictà - cooked in a well
closed pot - the eggs, that is, smothered. |
Sunt qui uvarum acinos cum pullo in olla
operta coquant: deinde conterunt<,> exprimunt, et rursus ad pullum
affundunt cum butyro{:}<.> Et rursus: Pullos rite paratos in ollam
inde: vinum, et ius carnium affunde, cum modico {sale} <salis[9]>, et aromatici pollinis crocei: quod si
iusculum crassius desideras, segmenta duo panis albi tosta bullienti
iuri iniicito, cum ferbuerint, extractis una cum iecore tritis exprimito
succum colando per aromaticum pollinem, et rursus affundito, et perfecte
coqui sinito. Sunt qui limonum segmenta cum pullis elixant, quae deinde
iis, cum inferuntur, imponunt. |
There
are some people cooking grapes along with the chicken in a pot closed
with cover: then they crush, squeeze and pour them again on the chicken
with butter. And another recipe of Balthasar Staindl: Put inside a pot
the chickens prepared as usual: add wine and meats’ broth with some
salt and aromatic flour of saffron: but if you desire a more fat little
broth put in the broth when boiling two toasted slices of white bread,
when they come to the boil, after they have been taken out and minced
with the liver, squeeze the juice and strain it through the aromatic
flour, and put it back in the pot, and let it cook properly. There are
some people cooking slices of lemon with chickens and then put slices on
them when are served. |
Cibarium contusum: Gallinam, vel Caponem
percoquito, donec carnes bene mollescant, et in pila pulpam una cum
ossibus contunde: quod si parum carnis fuerit, licebit etiam segmenta
albissimi panis simul conterere. Tum una cum iure omnia per aeneum vas
colatorium exprimes, modicum generosi vini, et croci, aromatumque
quantum satis videbitur, adiicies, et coques aliquandiu, cum inferre
volueris panem tostum subiicies, interdum ova extra testam in aqua cocta
impones. Reliquias etiam Gallinarum, et Caponum a mensa, carnes scilicet
cum ossibus aliqui contundunt, et ferculum parant: cui nonnulli elixum
hepar agninum contusum adiiciunt. Hic cibus
puerperis, et iis qui venam secuerint, convenit, ex ante dicto Stendelio. |
Crushed
dish: Cook a
hen or a capon for a long time until the meats are quite soft and crush
the pulp with the bones in a mortar: but if there is little meat it is
possible to crush together some chunks of very white bread. Then strain
the whole along with the broth through a bronze sieve, you will add some
good wine, and a quantity of saffron and spices you think enough, and
you will cook for some time, and when you will serve, place beneath
toasted bread, sometimes you will place over shelled eggs cooked in
water. Some also crush leftovers of hens and capons, that is, bones with
meat, and prepare a course: to which some add lamb’s liver boiled and
crushed. This food is suitable for those who have just born a child and
for those who have been bled. From aforesaid Balthasar Staindl. |
In pastillum Gallinaceum ex Platina[10]: Cristas pullorum trifariam, iecuscula
quadrifariam dividito: testiculos integros relinquito, laridum
tessel<l>atim concidito, nec tundito: duas aut tres uncias
vitulini adipis <minutatim
concidito>, <aut
loco adipis>[11]
medullam
bubulam, aut vitulinam addito. Zinziberis, cinnami, sacchari, quantum satis erit sumito.
Haecque omnia cum cerasis acribus (acidis) ac siccis ad quadraginta
misceto, inditoque in pastillum ad id apte ex farina subacta factum. In
furno, aut <sub textu>[12]
in foco decoqui
potest. Semicoctum ubi fuerit, duo vitellos ovorum disfractos, modicum
croci, et agrestae superinfundes. |
For
a chicken’s pie drawn
from Platina: Divide in three parts the combs of the chickens and their
livers in four parts: keep the testicles entire, cut up the lard into
small squares and do not pound it: cut up into small morsels two or
three ounces [around 50-75 g] of calf fat, or in place of fat add marrow
of ox or calf. Take as much as enough of ginger, cinnamon and sugar. And
mix all these things with about forty sour (acid) and dry cherries, and
put them in a suitable wrap of pastry made with kneaded flour. This can
be cooked in oven or on fire under a dish towel. When it is half cooked
pour on two beaten egg yolks, some saffron and verjuice. |
Ius Gallinaceum cum amygdalis: Cape tibi
selibram amygdalarum, tres ovorum vitellos exiguos, iecuscula Gallinarum,
panis e simila ad modum duorum ovorum, cremae lactis, quantum semiobolo
emitur, ius Gallinae veteris perfecte coctum. Tum amygdalas contusas cum
iure percolando exprime, et da. Vel pone prius in iure sic parato pullum
prius coctum, et modice simul effervere sinito, ut densiusculum fiat, et
modicum cinnamomi<,> {cariophyllorum}
<caryophyllorum>[13], salisque addito. Baltasar
Stendelius. |
Broth
of chicken with almonds:
Take half a pound [around 160 g] of almonds, three small egg's yolks,
hen’s livers, extra fine bread corresponding to two eggs, as much as
milk cream can be brought with half an obol, broth of old hen properly
boiled. Then squeeze the almonds minced with the broth filtering them
through a strainer, and serve. Or firstly place in the broth thus
prepared a previously boiled chicken, and let them boil together a
little bit so that it becomes a bit more concentrated and add a little
cinnamon, clove and
salt. Balthasar Staindl. |
Ex
eodem ius viride pro Gallina, aut Pullo. Pyret<h>ro, samsucho,
petroselino minutatim dissectis vinum affunde, simul agita, {saccarum}
<saccaron>, et aromatis aliquid adde, et affunde iuri, in quo
Gallina cocta est, nec amplius coquito, ne color viridis evanescat.
Conditura pro Gallinis elixis: Gallinam elixam integram, vel in partes
divisam, bene purgatam in ollam inde, permodicum aquae affunde cum pauco
vino dulci, et butyri modicum adde, et pollinis aromaticis nonnihil de
macere[14],
cinnamomo, {cariophyllis} <caryophyllis>. Cura diligenter <ne>[15]
diutius ad ignem maneat hoc ferculum, fit enim prorsus inutile. Tolles
cum ad russum colorem Gallina vergit, et ius mediocre habet. Si dulce placuerit, {saccarum} <saccaron> per se, vel cum
aromatibus adiicies. |
A
green broth for a hen or a young chicken, drawn from Balthasar Staindl. After Roman pellitory - or Mount
Atlas daisy, marjoram and parsley have been finely grinded, pour wine
over them, shake them jointly, add sugar and some spice, and pour in the
broth in which the hen has cooked, and don’t cook her any further lest
the green color disappears. Seasoning
for boiled hens: Place in a pot an entire boiled hen or divided
asunder and well polished up, pour very little water with little sweet
wine and add some butter and a little bit of aromatic powder gotten from
nutmeg or mace, cinnamon and cloves. Avoid carefully that this course
remains too much time on fire, for it becomes quite unusable. You will
remove it from fire when the hen is verging on red and has little broth.
If you like it sweet, add sugar alone or with spices. |
Aliud edulium de pullis vel Capis cum pane tosto
etc. ex eodem. Ipse Germanice vocat Plutzte hu<e>ner. Pullos,
aut Capos assos frustatim dissectos saccharo cum aromatibus condies, ac
vino dulci perfundes, imponesque segmentis e pane albo tostis eodem vino
dulci madentibus: frigidum impones. |
Again
from Balthasar Staindl Another
food made with chickens or capons with toasted bread etc. He in
German calls it plutzte huener. Season roasted and cut asunder
chickens or capons with sugar along with spices and sprinkle them with
sweet wine and place them on toasted slices of white bread soaked in the
same sweet wine: you will serve cold. |
[1]
De honesta voluptate liber 6 cap. 16. (Aldrovandi). Il riferimento è
tratto da Conrad Gessner. - In Libellus platine de honesta
voluptate ac valitudine, Bononiae, per Johannem Antonium Platonidem,
1499, questa ricetta si trova al capitolo 15.
[2]
De honesta voluptate liber 6 cap. 17. (Aldrovandi). Il riferimento è
tratto da Conrad Gessner. - In Libellus platine de honesta
voluptate ac valitudine, Bononiae, per Johannem Antonium Platonidem,
1499, questa ricetta si trova al capitolo 16. § Aldrovandi manco l’ha
visto il testo di Platina. Ha visto solo quello di Conrad Gessner, che
invece del platiniano refrigerat ha l’inesistente refrigeat.
Historia animalium III
(1555) pag. 389:
Et mox cap. 17. Pullus assus. Pullum bene depilatum, exinanitum et lotum
assabis. asso, atque in patinam imposito, antequam refrige<r>at, aut
succum mali medici, aut agrestam cum aqua rosacea, saccaro ac cinnamo bene
trito infundes, convivisque appones. Hoc Bucino non displicet, qui acria
(acida) simul ac dulcia appetit, ut bilem reprimat et corpus obeset.
§ Conviene aggiungere che Aldrovandi manco deve aver fatto
ricerche di cucina. Cita tutto quello che cita Gessner e basta, citando
perciò - e ricitando - il tedesco Baltasar Staindl, tralasciando invece
insigni italiani. Manco gli è passato per l’anticamera del cervello di
riportare qualche ricetta di Bartolomeo Scappi, presunto Bolognese,
conosciuto all’estero e non solo in Italia. Questo suggerimento mi è stato fornito da una persona competente, Marie
Josèphe Moncorgé, in una e-mail del 16 settembre 2005: Le
texte d'Aldrovandi, que vous m'avez envoyé, est très intéressant, car il
donne une idée des auteurs qui sont considérés comme une référence à
l'époque. Je suis donc très étonnée de voir qu'Aldrovandi, après avoir
fait référence à Apicius pour l'époque antique, se contente de citer
Platine et Staindl pour la période médiévale/Renaissance. A-t-il
seulement copié le suisse Gessner? Dans ce cas, je comprend qu'Aldrovandi
cite des auteurs allemands et des mots de vocabulaire culinaire allemand.
Mais s'il a fait un travail personnel, comment expliquer que le savant qui a
beaucoup vécu à Bologne ne cite pas les recettes du grand cuisinier du
pape et originaire de Bologne: Bartolomeo Scappi (Opera, 1570)?
Platine fait-il plus sérieux? C'est effectivement un intellectuel et non
pas un cuisinier, bien que ses recettes sont celles du cuisinier Maestro
Martino, ce qu'il reconnaît d'ailleurs. Encore merci pour ce texte, très
intéressant.
[3] II,5 – de coctoneis – Coctonea dici cum de malis loquimur: et non coctona. Varronis ac Plinii auctoritate manifestum est: qui coctona inter ficus commemorant. [...] mala medica: quae vulgo narantia vocamus [...]. (Libellus platine de honesta voluptate ac valitudine, Bononiae, per Johannem Antonium Platonidem, 1499) § Probabilmente si tratta di un qui pro quo di Platina. La narantia dovrebbe etimologicamente corrispondere all’arancia, mentre il malum medicum fin dai tempi dei Romani corrispondeva al cedro. Siccome per Platina il malum medicum è l’arancia e prescrive una spremuta di mali medici, è giocoforza tradurlo con arancia, anche se un antico Romano avrebbe inteso una spremuta di cedro.
[4]
La notizia è derivata da
Conrad Gessner Historia Animalium III (1555)
pag. 389,
che a sua volta la deduce dal Platina: Hoc Bucino non displicet, qui acria
(acida) simul ac dulcia appetit, ut bilem reprimat et corpus obeset. - It is
difficult to determine whether this name is a mistake by Aldrovandi [by
Platina!!!] for Dominicus Bucius, who wrote Quaesita III Medicinalia,
juxta Hippocratis, et Galeni mentem examinata (ed. by A. Bucci, Venice,
1551; another ed., Leyden, 1577). A certain Bucinense (Niccolò degli
Angeli) edited the Scriptores Rei Rusticae
(Florence,
1515, 1521), but he is probably not referred to here. (Lind,
1963) § Niccolò Angeli, detto Angelo Buccinese, insigne latinista del XVI
secolo, di Bùcine in provincia di Arezzo, nel Valdarno di Sopra.
[5]
De honesta voluptate liber 6 cap. 9. (Aldrovandi). - In Libellus
platine de honesta voluptate ac valitudine, Bononiae, per Johannem
Antonium Platonidem, 1499, questa ricetta si trova al capitolo 10.
[6] Conrad Gessner Historia Animalium III (1555) pag. 389: Cum pulli in olla operta coquuntur, vel assantur potius in butyro, [...].
[7]
Conrad Gessner Historia Animalium III (1555) pag. 389.
[8]
L’aggettivo greco pniktós significa soffocato, strangolato, cotto in vaso ben chiuso, stufato.
[9]
Conrad Gessner Historia Animalium III (1555) pag. 389:
Et rursus ad idem, Pullos rite paratos in ollam inde, vinum et ius carnium
affunde, cum modico salis et aromatici pollinis crocei.
[10]
De honesta voluptate liber 6 cap. 38. (Aldrovandi). Il riferimento è
tratto da Conrad Gessner. - In Libellus platine de honesta
voluptate ac valitudine, Bononiae, per Johannem Antonium Platonidem,
1499, questa ricetta si trova al capitolo 37.
[11] Il testo emendato è presente sia in Gessner che in Platina.
[12] Il testo emendato è presente sia in Gessner che in Platina.
[13]
Conrad Gessner Historia Animalium III (1555) pag. 390:
[...] et modicum cinnamomi, caryophyllorum salisque addito, Baltasar
Stendelius.
[14] Il sostantivo greco neutro indeclinabile máker oppure mákeir indica in Dioscoride l’arillo profumato della noce moscata. (Lorenzo Rocci). Arillo è l’involucro che si sviluppa attorno all'ovulo dei vegetali a partire dal funicolo, di aspetto generalmente carnoso e che permane ad avvolgere il seme, in parte o completamente, come per esempio quello rosso, ricco di sostanze zuccherine del tasso o albero della morte, Taxus baccata. § In latino il vocabolo greco suona macir in Plinio Naturalis historia XII,32: Et macir ex India advehitur, cortex rubens radicis magnae, nomine arboris suae. § Pierandrea Mattioli fa una lunga disquisizione a proposito dell’identificazione sia del máker di Dioscoride che dell’equivalente macir di Plinio, ma per brevità accettiamo quanto riferito da Lorenzo Rocci, e accettiamo macere invece di macir, in quanto macer viene declinato da Mattioli come sostantivo latino maschile. § In italiano macir si è trasformato in macis, che è il nome commerciale dell'involucro carnoso – dell’arillo - che avvolge il seme della noce moscata: da fresco ha colore rosso vivo e diventa giallo rossastro quand'è essiccato.
[15] Conrad Gessner Historia Animalium III (1555), pag. 390: Cura diligenter ne diutius ad ignem maneat hoc ferculum.