Ulisse Aldrovandi
Ornithologiae tomus alter - 1600
Liber
Decimusquartus
qui
est
de Pulveratricibus Domesticis
Book
14th
concerning
domestic
dust bathing fowls
transcribed by Fernando Civardi - translated by Elio Corti
The navigator's option display -> character -> medium is recommended
Aliter[1] conchicla farsilis, sive conchiclatus
pullus, vel porcellus: Exossas [296]
pullum a pectore, femora eius {iunges}
<iungis> in porrectum, surculo alligas et impensam paras, et
facies alternis pisam lotam, cerebella, lucanicas, et caetera: teres
piper, ligusticum, origanum, et Zinziber. Liquamen suffundis, passo{,} et vino temperabis.
Facies ut ferveat, et cum ferbuerit, mittis modice, et {pisam}
<impensam> cum condieris, alternis in pullo componis, omento tegis,
et in operculo deponis, et in furnum mittis, ut coquantur paulatim, et
inferes. |
Apicius
- In another manner, a stuffed little fava beans soup, that is chicken
or piggy cooked with fava beans:
You bone the chicken from the
breast, join its straightened legs, fix with a skewer and prepare the
ingredients, and you will arrange alternatively washed peas, brains,
Lucanian sausages and so on: you will mince pepper,
lovage,
oregano
and ginger. Sprinkle sauce of fish and blend raisin wine. Bring to the
boil and when it is boiling you cook on a slow heat, and when you will
have seasoned the ingredients, arrange them alternatively in the
chicken, cover with the omentum and place in a cover and put in oven so
that they cook slowly, and dish. |
Apud eundem item alibi[2] istos leges apparatus. In pullo elixo
ius crudum. Adiicies in mortarium anethi semen, mentham siccam, laseris
radicem, suffundis acetum, adiicies caryotam: refundis liquamen, sinapis
modicum, et oleum: defruto temperas, et sic mittis {in
pullum anethatum.
Aliter pullus}. <Pullum anethatum:> Mellis modice liquamine
temperabis. {Lavas} <Levas> pullum coctum, et sabano mundo siccas,
charaxas,
<et ius scissuris infundis, ut combibat: et cum conbiberit, assabis,
et suo sibi iure pinnis tangis>, piper asperges, et inferes. |
Still
in his treatise in another chapter you can read the following recipes. Raw
broth in boiled chicken. You will put in a mortar dill seed,
dried mint, root of
silphium, sprinkle vinegar, add date: pour sauce
of fish, a little mustard and oil: season with cooked wine and so dish.
Chicken with dill: you
will season with a little honey and sauce of fish. Take a cooked chicken
and dry it with a clean linen, make incisions, and put broth in the cuts
so that it becomes soaked and when it became impregnated you will roast
it and with feathers brush it with its juice, sprinkle pepper and dish. |
Pullus Parthicus[3]. Pullum aperies a navi (de hac parte
alibi[4] nostram aperuimus sententiam) et in
quadrato ornas: teres piper, ligusticum, carei modicum, suffundis
liquamen, vino temperas, componis in cumana pullum, et condituram super
pullum facies: laser, et vinum {inter illas} <in tepida>[5] dissolvis, et in pullum mittis simul, et
coques, piper asperges, et inferes. |
Parthian
Chicken. You
will open the chicken starting from belly (about this part I
explained my point of view elsewhere) and arrange it in a square
shape: you will mince pepper, lovage, a little caraway seeds, sprinkle
sauce of fish, add wine, arrange the chicken in an earthenware of Cuma
and pour the seasoning over the chicken: dissolve silphium and wine
warming up them and put them together in the chicken, and let cook,
sprinkle with pepper and dish. |
Pullus oxyzomus[6]: Olei acetabulum maiorem satis modice,
liquaminis acetabulum minorem, aceti acetabulum perquam minorem, piperis
scrupulos sex<,> petroselinum, porri fasciculum. |
Chicken
in hot sauce: A
rather large acetabulum - goblet for vinegar - of oil in restrained
quantity, a smaller acetabulum of fish sauce, a further smaller
acetabulum of vinegar, six scruples [around 7 g] of pepper, parsley, a
posy of leek. |
Pullus laseratus[7]. Aperies a navi, lavabis, ornabis, et in
cumana ponis: teres piper, ligusticum, {laser, vinum} <laser
vivum>[8], suffundis liquamen: vino, et liquamine
temperabis, et mittis pullum: coctus si fuerit pipere aspersum inferes. |
Chicken
with silphium:
You will open it starting from belly, then wash it, garnish and put
it in an earthenware of Cuma: mince pepper, lovage, fresh silphium,
sprinkle sauce of fish: you will season it with wine and fish sauce, and
cook the chicken: when cooked, after a sprinkling of pepper dish it. |
Pullus elixus cum cucurbitis elixis[9]. Iure suprascripto addito sinapi
perfundis, et inferes. |
Boiled
chicken with boiled pumpkins. After aforesaid broth has been added, pour on mustard and dish. |
Pullus
elixus cum colocasiis elixis[10]:
Suprascripto iure perfundis, et inferes. |
Boiled
chicken with boiled taros: Pour the aforesaid broth on it and dish. |
{Facit}
<Facis>[11] et in elixum cum olivis colymbadibus non
valde (impletum) ita ut laxamentum habeat, nec dissiliat dum coquitur in
olla: submissum in sportellam cum bullierit, frequenter lavas, et ponis,
ne dissiliat. |
You
can also boil it, not too much (stuffed) with marinated olives so that
there is some empty room and it doesn't break while cooking in pot:
placed in a small basket after had boiled, you wash it several times and
put it back so that it doesn't break. |
Pullus Varianus[12] (a Vario[13] Heliogabalo fortassis, alias Vardanus) Pullum
coque iure hoc: liquamine, oleo, vino, fasciculum porri, coriandri,
satureiae, cum {con}coctus[14] fuerit, teres piper, nucleos cyath{i}os
duos, et ius de suo sibi suffundis, et fasciculos proijcies, lacte
temperas, et reexinanies in mortarium supra pullum, ut ferveat: obligas
cum albamentis ovorum tritis, ponis in lance, et iure supradicto
perfundis. Hoc
ius candidum appellatur. |
Chicken
à la Varius (perhaps
from Varius Heliogabalus, otherwise called à la
Vardane):
Boil the
chicken in this broth: sauce of fish, oil, wine, a posy of leek,
coriander,
savory, when cooked you will mince pepper, two cyathi [100
ml] of nut's kernels, and sprinkle it with its broth and you will throw
away the posies, sweeten with milk, and you will drain it again in a
mortar as well as the chicken so that it gets boiling: blend with beaten
egg white, place in a tray and sprinkle with the aforesaid broth. This
broth is said candid. |
Pullus Frontonianus[15]. Pullum praedura<,> condies
liquamine oleo mixto, cui mittis fasciculum anethi, porri, satureiae, et
coriandri viridis, et coques, ubi coctus fuerit, levabis< >eum<,>
in lance{,} {de fruto} <defruto> perfundes, piper asperges, et
inferes. |
Chicken
à la Fronto [Marcus
Cornelius Fronto?]: Let a chicken grow hard, you will season it with
fish sauce mixed with oil adding a posy of dill, leek, savory and green
coriander, and cook, when cooked take it out, in a tray sprinkle it with
cooked wine, scatter pepper and dish. |
Pullus tractogalatus[16] (a {tracte} <tracta>[17], et lacte quibus condiebatur, ut Humelbergius
exponit). Pullum coques liquamine, oleo, vino cui mittis fasciculum
coriandri, caepam: deinde cum coctus fuerit, levabis eum de iure suo, et
mittis in cacabum novum lac, et salem modicum: mel, et aquae minimum, id
est tertiam partem, ponis ad ignem lentum, ut tepescat: tractum
confringis, et mittis paulatim, assidue agitas, ne uratur, pullum illic
mittis integrum, vel carptum, versabis in lance, quem perfundes iure
tali: piper, ligusticum, origanum: suffundis mel, et defrutum modicum,
et ius de suo sibi temperas in cacabulo: facies, ut bulliat: cum
bullierit, amylo obligas, et inferes. |
Chicken
with milk (tractogalatus
from tracta, puff pastry, and lac, milk, by which it was
seasoned, as Gabriel Hummelberg
explains): Let cook a chicken in fish sauce, oil, wine, to which you
add a posy of coriander, some onion: then when cooked you will remove
it from its broth and place milk in a new pot and a little bit of salt:
simmer honey and a very little bit of water, that is the third part, so
that it tepefies: crumble puff pastry and add it bit by bit, stir
frequently so that it doesn't burn, place the chicken whole or asunder,
transfer it in a tray and sprinkle it with the following sauce: pepper,
lovage, oregano: pour honey and a little bit of cooked wine, and sweeten
its broth in a pot: bring it to the boil: when boiling blend with starch
and dish. |
Pullus farsilis[18]. Pullum sic, ne aliquid in eo remaneat,
a cervice expedies, teres piper, ligusticum, Zinziber, pulpam caesam,
alicam elixam, teres cerebellum ex iure coctum: ova confringis, et
commisces, ut unum corpus efficias, liquamine temperas, et oleum modice
mittis, piper integrum, nucleos abundantes, fac impensam, ac imples
pullum, vel procellum ita ut laxamentum habeat. Similiter et in capo facies. Accipies pullum, et
ornas, ut supra: aperis illum a pectore, et omnibus eiectis coques. |
Stuffed
chicken: You
will prepare the chicken starting from the neck so that nothing remains
in it, mince pepper, lovage, ginger, chopped meat, boiled emmer, mince
the brain cooked in broth: break some eggs and mix them until an unique
mass is done, season them with fish sauce and put a little bit of oil,
entire pepper, abundant nut's kernels, prepare a stuffing and fill the
chicken or the piggy so that it has an empty room. Likewise you will do
also in the capon. You will take the chicken and garnish it as said
before: you will open it starting from breast and will cook it after
what is inside has been removed. |
Pullus {L}<l>eucozomus[19]. Accipias
aquam, et oleum Hispanum abundans, agitatur, ut ex se ambulet, et
humorem consumat; postea cum coctus fuerit, quodcunque olei remanserit,
inde levas, piper asperges, et inferes. |
Chicken
in white sauce:
You have to take water and plenty of Spanish oil, it is shaken so
that it flows alone and hides the water; then, when cooked, whatever
quantity of oil will be there, you remove it from there, sprinkle it
with pepper and dish. |
Haec omnia Apicius, qui etiam quod omiseram,
primum haec scripserat. In
Isicia de pullo[20]:
Olei floris libra una, liquaminis quartarium, piperis semuncia. Aliter de pullo[21]. Piperis grana triginta, et unum conteres,
mittis liquaminis optimi calicem, {caraeni} <caroeni> tantundem,
aquae XI. mittes, et ad vaporem ignis pones{:}<.> |
Apicius
provides all these recipes, who in first place also wrote what follows
and which I omitted. Sausages of
chicken: A pound [327.45 g] of best oil, a fourth of sextarius
[125 ml] of fish sauce, one-half ounce [13.64 g] of pepper. Another
kind of sausages of chicken: You will mince thirty-one grains
of pepper, add a goblet of best fish sauce and the same of cooked wine,
you will pour eleven goblets of water and will place on the smoke of a
fire. |
Isicia[22] de Pavo primum locum habent, ita si fricta
fuerint, ut callum vincant: secundum Isicia de Phasianis, tertium de
cuniculis, quartum de pullis. |
The
sausages of peacock have the top position if fried so as to lose
hardness: the second place belongs to pheasant sausages,
the third to those of rabbit, the fourth to those of chicken. |
Aliter[23] (Isicium amylatum). Ossicula de pullis
expromas, deinde mittis in cacabum porros, anethum, salem, cum cocta
fuerint, addes piper, apii semen, deinde orindam (forte oryzam cuius,
et paulo ante meminerat in simili Isicio amylato. Sed Humelbergius ex
Hesychio orindam interpretatur semen simile sesamae, etc.) infusam
teres: addes liquamen, et passum, vel defrutum, omnia misces, et cum
isiciis inferes. |
Another
recipe (Sausage with starch):
You have to remove the little bones from chickens, then put in a pot
leeks, dill, salt, when cooked you will add pepper, fennel seed, then
mince brewed orinda (perhaps oryza - rice - which he had also
mentioned shortly before in a quite similar sausage with starch. But Gabriel Hummelberg, inferring from Hesychius of Alexandria,
translates with orinda a seed similar to sesame, etc.): you
will add fish sauce and raisin or boiled wine, mix all this and dish
with sausages. |
Dipnosophistis apud Athenaeum[24] Gallus cum oxyliparo
apponitur. Γαλεούς καὶ βατίδας ὅσα τε τῶν γενῶν ἐν ὀξυλιπάρῳ τρίμματι σκευάζεται, inquit ibi Timocles
comicus{:}<.> Est autem forte oxyliparum trimma[25] seu condimentum idem, aut simile quale
supra in pullo {oryzomo} <oxyzomo> Apicius descripsit, quod
conficitur aceto, liquamine, et oleo, quae lipara, id est pinguia sunt. Sed
Hermolaus, sese invenisse, ait, oxyliparon genus esse iuris, in quo
raiae, et caeteri eius naturae pisces mandi soleant. |
In
Athenaeus a rooster with vinegar and oil is served to Dipnosophists.
Here Timocles the comic poet says: Galeoús kaì batídas hósa te
tôn genôn en oxylipárøi trímmati skeuázetai. - Sharks
and rays and quite a lot of subjects of this kind are prepared in a
sauce piquant and fat. For perhaps the oxyliparum is the trimma
or seasoning, alike or similar to that Apicius described before in
chicken with piquant sauce, which is made with vinegar, fish sauce and
oil, which are lipara, that is fat. But Ermolao Barbaro says he
found that oxyliparon is a kind of juice in which usually rays
and other fishes of this kind are eaten. |
Egregia
quaedam condimenta pro pullis coctis describit Antonius
G<u>ainerius[26]
<in> capite de restaurando appetitu. |
Antonio
Guainerio
describes certain excellent condiments for boiled chickens under the
chapter of restoring the appetite. |
[1] Apicio De re coquinaria
V,4,6: Aliter conchicla: conchiclatus pullus vel porcellus: exossas pullum a
pectore, femora eius iungis in porrectum, surculo alligas, et impensam [conchicla
farsilis] paras. et farcies alternis pisam lotam, cerebella, lucanicas et
cetera. teres ‹piper,› ligusticum, origanum et gingiber, liquamen
suffundis, passo et vino temperabis. facies ut ferveat, et, cum ferbuerit,
mittis modice. et impensam cum condieris, alternis in pullo componis, omento
tegis et in operculo deponis et in furnum mittis, ut coquantur paulatim, et
inferes. (www.fh-augsburg.de) § Conrad Gessner Historia Animalium III
(1555) pag. 387-388: Aliter conchicla farsilis, sive conchiclatus pullus
vel porcellus: Exossas pullum a pectore, femora eius iungis in porrectum,
surculo alligas, et impensam paras, et facies alternis pisam lotam, [388]
cerebella, lucanicas, et caetera, teres piper, ligusticum, origanum et
zingiber. liquamen suffundis, passo et vino temperabis. facies ut ferveat.
et cum ferbuerit, mittis modice et pisam cum condieris, alternis in pullo
componis, omento tegis, et in operculo deponis, et in furnum mittis ut
coquantur paulatim, et inferes.
[2]
De re coquinaria VI,9,1.a.-1.b.: 1.a. In pullo elixo ius crudum:
adicies in mortarium anethi semen, mentam siccam, laseris radicem, suffundis
acetum, adicies caryotam, refundis liquamen, sinapis modicum et oleum,
defrito temperas et sic mittis. - 1,b. Pullum anethatum: mellis modice,
liquamine temperabis. levas pullum coctum et sabano mundo siccas, caraxas et
ius scissuris infundis, ut combibat, et cum combiberit, assabis et suo sibi
iure pinnis tangis. piper aspersum inferes. (www.fh-augsburg.de) § Conrad
Gessner Historia Animalium III (1555) pag. 388: In pullo
elixo ius crudum. Adiicies in mortarium anethi semen, mentam siccam, laseris
radicem: suffundis acetum: adiicies caryotam: refundis liquamen, sinapis
modicum et oleum: defruto temperas, et sic mittis in pullum, anethatum.
Aliter pullus. Mellis modice, liquamine temperabis. {Lavas}
<Levas> pullum coctum, et
sabano mundo ficcas, charaxas, et ius scissuris infundis, ut combibat: et
cum conbiberit, assabis, et suo sibi iure {pertangis} <pinnis tangis>,
piper asperges et inferes.
[3]
VI,9,2.
[4]
A pagina 196.
[5]
Conrad Gessner Historia Animalium III (1555) pag. 388:
laser et vinum inter illas dissolvis,[...] - www.fh-augsburg.de: laser [et]
vivum in tepida dissolvis,[...].
[6]
VI,9,3.
[7]
VI,9,5.
[8]
Conrad
Gessner Historia Animalium III (1555) pag. 388:
ligusticum,
laser, vinum:[...] - www.fh-augsburg.de: laser vivum, [...].
[9]
VI,9,9.
[10]
VI,9,10.
[11]
VI,9,11. - www.fh-augsburg.de: Facis et in elixa[...]. – Conrad Gessner Historia
Animalium III (1555) pag. 388: {Facit} <Facis>
et in elixum cum olivis colymbadibus non valde (impletum,) ita ut
laxamentum habeat, ne dissiliat dum coquitur in olla: submissum in
sportellam cum bullierit, frequenter lavas et ponis ne dissiliat.
[12]
VI,9,12.
[13]
Lampridio Elagabalus o Heliogabalus (Marcus Aurelius
Antoninus) I.1: Vitam Heliogabali Antonini, qui Varius etiam dictus
est,[...]
[14]
www.fh-augsburg.de & Conrad Gessner: ...
cum coctus fuerit...
[15]
VI,9,13. - www.fh-augsburg.de: ubi coctus fuerit, levabis eum, in
lance defruto...
[16]
VI,9,14.
[17]
Conrad Gessner Historia Animalium III (1555) pag. 388: Pullus
tractogalatus, (a tracta et lacte quibus condiebatur, Humelbergius.)
[18]
VI,9,15.
[19]
VI,9,16.
[20]
II,2,3.
[21]
II,2,4.
[22]
II,2,6.
[23]
II,2,9.
[24]
Liber 8. (Aldrovandi) – Si tratta in realtà del libro IX,34,385a. §
Giustamente Lind (1963) dà questa referenza - 9.385
- e sottolinea che gallus è un
qui pro quo: il testo greco dice Galeoús,
che è l’accusativo
plurale di galeós, il pescecane. §
L’errore della citazione proviene, come è
ovvio, da Conrad Gessner
Historia Animalium III (1555) pag. 388: Gallus cum
oxyliparo apponitur Dipnosophistis apud Athenaeum lib. 8. [...] idem aut
simile quale supra in pullo oxyzomo Apicius descripsit,[...].
[25] Il sostantivo greco neutro trîmma – da tríbø, trebbiare, tritare – è una cosa logorata, una raschiatura, una salsa, frammenti di qualcosa.
[26]
L’errore della citazione proviene, come è ovvio,
da Conrad Gessner Historia Animalium III
(1555) pag. 389: Egregia quaedam condimenta pro pullis coctis describit
Ant. Gainerius in capite de restaurando appetitu.