Ulisse Aldrovandi

Ornithologiae tomus alter - 1600

Liber Decimusquartus
qui est 
de Pulveratricibus Domesticis

Book 14th
concerning
domestic dust bathing fowls

transcribed by Fernando Civardi - translated by Elio Corti

296

 


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Aliter[1] conchicla farsilis, sive conchiclatus pullus, vel porcellus: Exossas [296] pullum a pectore, femora eius {iunges} <iungis> in porrectum, surculo alligas et impensam paras, et facies alternis pisam lotam, cerebella, lucanicas, et caetera: teres piper, ligusticum, origanum, et Zinziber. Liquamen suffundis, passo{,} et vino temperabis. Facies ut ferveat, et cum ferbuerit, mittis modice, et {pisam} <impensam> cum condieris, alternis in pullo componis, omento tegis, et in operculo deponis, et in furnum mittis, ut coquantur paulatim, et inferes.

Apicius - In another manner, a stuffed little fava beans soup, that is chicken or piggy cooked with fava beans: You bone the chicken from the breast, join its straightened legs, fix with a skewer and prepare the ingredients, and you will arrange alternatively washed peas, brains, Lucanian sausages and so on: you will mince pepper, lovage, oregano and ginger. Sprinkle sauce of fish and blend raisin wine. Bring to the boil and when it is boiling you cook on a slow heat, and when you will have seasoned the ingredients, arrange them alternatively in the chicken, cover with the omentum and place in a cover and put in oven so that they cook slowly, and dish.

Apud eundem item alibi[2] istos leges apparatus. In pullo elixo ius crudum. Adiicies in mortarium anethi semen, mentham siccam, laseris radicem, suffundis acetum, adiicies caryotam: refundis liquamen, sinapis modicum, et oleum: defruto temperas, et sic mittis {in pullum anethatum. Aliter pullus}. <Pullum anethatum:> Mellis modice liquamine temperabis. {Lavas} <Levas> pullum coctum, et sabano mundo siccas, charaxas, <et ius scissuris infundis, ut combibat: et cum conbiberit, assabis, et suo sibi iure pinnis tangis>, piper asperges, et inferes.

Still in his treatise in another chapter you can read the following recipes. Raw broth in boiled chicken. You will put in a mortar dill seed, dried mint, root of silphium, sprinkle vinegar, add date: pour sauce of fish, a little mustard and oil: season with cooked wine and so dish. Chicken with dill: you will season with a little honey and sauce of fish. Take a cooked chicken and dry it with a clean linen, make incisions, and put broth in the cuts so that it becomes soaked and when it became impregnated you will roast it and with feathers brush it with its juice, sprinkle pepper and dish.

Pullus Parthicus[3]. Pullum aperies a navi (de hac parte alibi[4] nostram aperuimus sententiam) et in quadrato ornas: teres piper, ligusticum, carei modicum, suffundis liquamen, vino temperas, componis in cumana pullum, et condituram super pullum facies: laser, et vinum {inter illas} <in tepida>[5] dissolvis, et in pullum mittis simul, et coques, piper asperges, et inferes.

Parthian Chicken. You will open the chicken starting from belly (about this part I explained my point of view elsewhere) and arrange it in a square shape: you will mince pepper, lovage, a little caraway seeds, sprinkle sauce of fish, add wine, arrange the chicken in an earthenware of Cuma and pour the seasoning over the chicken: dissolve silphium and wine warming up them and put them together in the chicken, and let cook, sprinkle with pepper and dish.

Pullus oxyzomus[6]: Olei acetabulum maiorem satis modice, liquaminis acetabulum minorem, aceti acetabulum perquam minorem, piperis scrupulos sex<,> petroselinum, porri fasciculum.

Chicken in hot sauce: A rather large acetabulum - goblet for vinegar - of oil in restrained quantity, a smaller acetabulum of fish sauce, a further smaller acetabulum of vinegar, six scruples [around 7 g] of pepper, parsley, a posy of leek.

Pullus laseratus[7]. Aperies a navi, lavabis, ornabis, et in cumana ponis: teres piper, ligusticum, {laser, vinum} <laser vivum>[8], suffundis liquamen: vino, et liquamine temperabis, et mittis pullum: coctus si fuerit pipere aspersum inferes.

Chicken with silphium: You will open it starting from belly, then wash it, garnish and put it in an earthenware of Cuma: mince pepper, lovage, fresh silphium, sprinkle sauce of fish: you will season it with wine and fish sauce, and cook the chicken: when cooked, after a sprinkling of pepper dish it.

Pullus elixus cum cucurbitis elixis[9]. Iure suprascripto addito sinapi perfundis, et inferes.

Boiled chicken with boiled pumpkins. After aforesaid broth has been added, pour on mustard and dish.

Pullus elixus cum colocasiis elixis[10]: Suprascripto iure perfundis, et inferes.

Boiled chicken with boiled taros: Pour the aforesaid broth on it and dish.

{Facit} <Facis>[11] et in elixum cum olivis colymbadibus non valde (impletum) ita ut laxamentum habeat, nec dissiliat dum coquitur in olla: submissum in sportellam cum bullierit, frequenter lavas, et ponis, ne dissiliat.

You can also boil it, not too much (stuffed) with marinated olives so that there is some empty room and it doesn't break while cooking in pot: placed in a small basket after had boiled, you wash it several times and put it back so that it doesn't break.

Pullus Varianus[12] (a Vario[13] Heliogabalo fortassis, alias Vardanus) Pullum coque iure hoc: liquamine, oleo, vino, fasciculum porri, coriandri, satureiae, cum {con}coctus[14] fuerit, teres piper, nucleos cyath{i}os duos, et ius de suo sibi suffundis, et fasciculos proijcies, lacte temperas, et reexinanies in mortarium supra pullum, ut ferveat: obligas cum albamentis ovorum tritis, ponis in lance, et iure supradicto perfundis. Hoc ius candidum appellatur.

Chicken à la Varius (perhaps from Varius Heliogabalus, otherwise called à la Vardane): Boil the chicken in this broth: sauce of fish, oil, wine, a posy of leek, coriander, savory, when cooked you will mince pepper, two cyathi [100 ml] of nut's kernels, and sprinkle it with its broth and you will throw away the posies, sweeten with milk, and you will drain it again in a mortar as well as the chicken so that it gets boiling: blend with beaten egg white, place in a tray and sprinkle with the aforesaid broth. This broth is said candid.

Pullus Frontonianus[15]. Pullum praedura<,> condies liquamine oleo mixto, cui mittis fasciculum anethi, porri, satureiae, et coriandri viridis, et coques, ubi coctus fuerit, levabis< >eum<,> in lance{,} {de fruto} <defruto> perfundes, piper asperges, et inferes.

Chicken à la Fronto [Marcus Cornelius Fronto?]: Let a chicken grow hard, you will season it with fish sauce mixed with oil adding a posy of dill, leek, savory and green coriander, and cook, when cooked take it out, in a tray sprinkle it with cooked wine, scatter pepper and dish.

Pullus tractogalatus[16] (a {tracte} <tracta>[17], et lacte quibus condiebatur, ut Humelbergius exponit). Pullum coques liquamine, oleo, vino cui mittis fasciculum coriandri, caepam: deinde cum coctus fuerit, levabis eum de iure suo, et mittis in cacabum novum lac, et salem modicum: mel, et aquae minimum, id est tertiam partem, ponis ad ignem lentum, ut tepescat: tractum confringis, et mittis paulatim, assidue agitas, ne uratur, pullum illic mittis integrum, vel carptum, versabis in lance, quem perfundes iure tali: piper, ligusticum, origanum: suffundis mel, et defrutum modicum, et ius de suo sibi temperas in cacabulo: facies, ut bulliat: cum bullierit, amylo obligas, et inferes.

Chicken with milk (tractogalatus from tracta, puff pastry, and lac, milk, by which it was seasoned, as Gabriel Hummelberg explains): Let cook a chicken in fish sauce, oil, wine, to which you add a posy of coriander, some onion: then when cooked you will remove it from its broth and place milk in a new pot and a little bit of salt: simmer honey and a very little bit of water, that is the third part, so that it tepefies: crumble puff pastry and add it bit by bit, stir frequently so that it doesn't burn, place the chicken whole or asunder, transfer it in a tray and sprinkle it with the following sauce: pepper, lovage, oregano: pour honey and a little bit of cooked wine, and sweeten its broth in a pot: bring it to the boil: when boiling blend with starch and dish.

Pullus farsilis[18]. Pullum sic, ne aliquid in eo remaneat, a cervice expedies, teres piper, ligusticum, Zinziber, pulpam caesam, alicam elixam, teres cerebellum ex iure coctum: ova confringis, et commisces, ut unum corpus efficias, liquamine temperas, et oleum modice mittis, piper integrum, nucleos abundantes, fac impensam, ac imples pullum, vel procellum ita ut laxamentum habeat. Similiter et in capo facies. Accipies pullum, et ornas, ut supra: aperis illum a pectore, et omnibus eiectis coques.

Stuffed chicken: You will prepare the chicken starting from the neck so that nothing remains in it, mince pepper, lovage, ginger, chopped meat, boiled emmer, mince the brain cooked in broth: break some eggs and mix them until an unique mass is done, season them with fish sauce and put a little bit of oil, entire pepper, abundant nut's kernels, prepare a stuffing and fill the chicken or the piggy so that it has an empty room. Likewise you will do also in the capon. You will take the chicken and garnish it as said before: you will open it starting from breast and will cook it after what is inside has been removed.

Pullus {L}<l>eucozomus[19]. Accipias aquam, et oleum Hispanum abundans, agitatur, ut ex se ambulet, et humorem consumat; postea cum coctus fuerit, quodcunque olei remanserit, inde levas, piper asperges, et inferes.

Chicken in white sauce: You have to take water and plenty of Spanish oil, it is shaken so that it flows alone and hides the water; then, when cooked, whatever quantity of oil will be there, you remove it from there, sprinkle it with pepper and dish.

Haec omnia Apicius, qui etiam quod omiseram, primum haec scripserat. In Isicia de pullo[20]: Olei floris libra una, liquaminis quartarium, piperis semuncia. Aliter de pullo[21]. Piperis grana triginta, et unum conteres, mittis liquaminis optimi calicem, {caraeni} <caroeni> tantundem, aquae XI. mittes, et ad vaporem ignis pones{:}<.>

Apicius provides all these recipes, who in first place also wrote what follows and which I omitted. Sausages of chicken: A pound [327.45 g] of best oil, a fourth of sextarius [125 ml] of fish sauce, one-half ounce [13.64 g] of pepper. Another kind of sausages of chicken: You will mince thirty-one grains of pepper, add a goblet of best fish sauce and the same of cooked wine, you will pour eleven goblets of water and will place on the smoke of a fire.

Isicia[22] de Pavo primum locum habent, ita si fricta fuerint, ut callum vincant: secundum Isicia de Phasianis, tertium de cuniculis, quartum de pullis.

The sausages of peacock have the top position if fried so as to lose hardness: the second place belongs to pheasant sausages, the third to those of rabbit, the fourth to those of chicken.

Aliter[23] (Isicium amylatum). Ossicula de pullis expromas, deinde mittis in cacabum porros, anethum, salem, cum cocta fuerint, addes piper, apii semen, deinde orindam (forte oryzam cuius, et paulo ante meminerat in simili Isicio amylato. Sed Humelbergius ex Hesychio orindam interpretatur semen simile sesamae, etc.) infusam teres: addes liquamen, et passum, vel defrutum, omnia misces, et cum isiciis inferes.

Another recipe (Sausage with starch): You have to remove the little bones from chickens, then put in a pot leeks, dill, salt, when cooked you will add pepper, fennel seed, then mince brewed orinda (perhaps oryza - rice - which he had also mentioned shortly before in a quite similar sausage with starch. But Gabriel Hummelberg, inferring from Hesychius of Alexandria, translates with orinda a seed similar to sesame, etc.): you will add fish sauce and raisin or boiled wine, mix all this and dish with sausages.

Dipnosophistis apud Athenaeum[24] Gallus cum oxyliparo apponitur. Γαλεούς καὶ βατίδας ὅσα τε τῶν γενῶν ἐν ὀξυλιπάρῳ τρίμματι σκευάζεται, inquit ibi Timocles comicus{:}<.> Est autem forte oxyliparum trimma[25] seu condimentum idem, aut simile quale supra in pullo {oryzomo} <oxyzomo> Apicius descripsit, quod conficitur aceto, liquamine, et oleo, quae lipara, id est pinguia sunt. Sed Hermolaus, sese invenisse, ait, oxyliparon genus esse iuris, in quo raiae, et caeteri eius naturae pisces mandi soleant.

In Athenaeus a rooster with vinegar and oil is served to Dipnosophists. Here Timocles the comic poet says: Galeoús kaì batídas hósa te tôn genôn en oxylipárøi trímmati skeuázetai. - Sharks and rays and quite a lot of subjects of this kind are prepared in a sauce piquant and fat. For perhaps the oxyliparum is the trimma or seasoning, alike or similar to that Apicius described before in chicken with piquant sauce, which is made with vinegar, fish sauce and oil, which are lipara, that is fat. But Ermolao Barbaro says he found that oxyliparon is a kind of juice in which usually rays and other fishes of this kind are eaten.

Egregia quaedam condimenta pro pullis coctis describit Antonius G<u>ainerius[26] <in> capite de restaurando appetitu.

Antonio Guainerio describes certain excellent condiments for boiled chickens under the chapter of restoring the appetite.


296


[1] Apicio De re coquinaria V,4,6: Aliter conchicla: conchiclatus pullus vel porcellus: exossas pullum a pectore, femora eius iungis in porrectum, surculo alligas, et impensam [conchicla farsilis] paras. et farcies alternis pisam lotam, cerebella, lucanicas et cetera. teres ‹piper,› ligusticum, origanum et gingiber, liquamen suffundis, passo et vino temperabis. facies ut ferveat, et, cum ferbuerit, mittis modice. et impensam cum condieris, alternis in pullo componis, omento tegis et in operculo deponis et in furnum mittis, ut coquantur paulatim, et inferes. (www.fh-augsburg.de) § Conrad Gessner Historia Animalium III (1555) pag. 387-388: Aliter conchicla farsilis, sive conchiclatus pullus vel porcellus: Exossas pullum a pectore, femora eius iungis in porrectum, surculo alligas, et impensam paras, et facies alternis pisam lotam, [388] cerebella, lucanicas, et caetera, teres piper, ligusticum, origanum et zingiber. liquamen suffundis, passo et vino temperabis. facies ut ferveat. et cum ferbuerit, mittis modice et pisam cum condieris, alternis in pullo componis, omento tegis, et in operculo deponis, et in furnum mittis ut coquantur paulatim, et inferes.

[2] De re coquinaria VI,9,1.a.-1.b.: 1.a. In pullo elixo ius crudum: adicies in mortarium anethi semen, mentam siccam, laseris radicem, suffundis acetum, adicies caryotam, refundis liquamen, sinapis modicum et oleum, defrito temperas et sic mittis. - 1,b. Pullum anethatum: mellis modice, liquamine temperabis. levas pullum coctum et sabano mundo siccas, caraxas et ius scissuris infundis, ut combibat, et cum combiberit, assabis et suo sibi iure pinnis tangis. piper aspersum inferes. (www.fh-augsburg.de) § Conrad Gessner Historia Animalium III (1555) pag. 388: In pullo elixo ius crudum. Adiicies in mortarium anethi semen, mentam siccam, laseris radicem: suffundis acetum: adiicies caryotam: refundis liquamen, sinapis modicum et oleum: defruto temperas, et sic mittis in pullum, anethatum. Aliter pullus. Mellis modice, liquamine temperabis. {Lavas} <Levas> pullum coctum, et sabano mundo ficcas, charaxas, et ius scissuris infundis, ut combibat: et cum conbiberit, assabis, et suo sibi iure {pertangis} <pinnis tangis>, piper asperges et inferes.

[3] VI,9,2.

[4] A pagina 196.

[5] Conrad Gessner Historia Animalium III (1555) pag. 388: laser et vinum inter illas dissolvis,[...] - www.fh-augsburg.de: laser [et] vivum in tepida dissolvis,[...].

[6] VI,9,3.

[7] VI,9,5.

[8] Conrad Gessner Historia Animalium III (1555) pag. 388: ligusticum, laser, vinum:[...] - www.fh-augsburg.de: laser vivum, [...].

[9] VI,9,9.

[10] VI,9,10.

[11] VI,9,11. - www.fh-augsburg.de: Facis et in elixa[...]. – Conrad Gessner Historia Animalium III (1555) pag. 388: {Facit} <Facis> et in elixum cum olivis colymbadibus non valde (impletum,) ita ut laxamentum habeat, ne dissiliat dum coquitur in olla: submissum in sportellam cum bullierit, frequenter lavas et ponis ne dissiliat.

[12] VI,9,12.

[13] Lampridio Elagabalus o Heliogabalus (Marcus Aurelius Antoninus) I.1: Vitam Heliogabali Antonini, qui Varius etiam dictus est,[...]

[14] www.fh-augsburg.de & Conrad Gessner: ... cum coctus fuerit...

[15] VI,9,13. - www.fh-augsburg.de: ubi coctus fuerit, levabis eum, in lance defruto...

[16] VI,9,14.

[17] Conrad Gessner Historia Animalium III (1555) pag. 388: Pullus tractogalatus, (a tracta et lacte quibus condiebatur, Humelbergius.)

[18] VI,9,15.

[19] VI,9,16.

[20] II,2,3.

[21] II,2,4.

[22] II,2,6.

[23] II,2,9.

[24] Liber 8. (Aldrovandi) – Si tratta in realtà del libro IX,34,385a. § Giustamente Lind (1963) dà questa referenza - 9.385 - e sottolinea che gallus è un qui pro quo: il testo greco dice Galeoús, che è l’accusativo plurale di galeós, il pescecane. § L’errore della citazione proviene, come è ovvio, da Conrad Gessner Historia Animalium III (1555) pag. 388: Gallus cum oxyliparo apponitur Dipnosophistis apud Athenaeum lib. 8. [...] idem aut simile quale supra in pullo oxyzomo Apicius descripsit,[...].

[25] Il sostantivo greco neutro trîmma – da tríbø, trebbiare, tritare – è una cosa logorata, una raschiatura, una salsa, frammenti di qualcosa.

[26] L’errore della citazione proviene, come è ovvio, da Conrad Gessner Historia Animalium III (1555) pag. 389: Egregia quaedam condimenta pro pullis coctis describit Ant. Gainerius in capite de restaurando appetitu.