Conrad Gessner

Historiae animalium liber III qui est de Avium natura - 1555

De Gallo Gallinaceo

transcribed by Fernando Civardi - translated by Elio Corti

388

 


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Ex eiusdem authoris
libro vi. cap. ix.

From 6th book chapter 9th
of the same author – Apicius

 In pullo elixo ius crudum. Adijcies in mortarium anethi semen, mentam siccam, laseris radicem: suffundis acetum: adijcies caryotam: refundis liquamen, sinapis modicum et oleum: defruto temperas, et sic mittis {in pullum anethatum. Aliter pullus}.

Raw broth in boiled chicken. You will put in a mortar dill seed, dried mint, root of silphium, sprinkle vinegar: add date: pour sauce of fish, a little mustard and oil: season with cooked wine and so dish.

<Pullum anethatum:>[1] Mellis modice, liquamine temperabis. {Lavas} <Levas> pullum coctum, et sabano mundo siccas, charaxas, et ius scissuris infundis, ut combibat: et cum conbiberit, assabis, et suo sibi iure {pertangis} <pinnis tangis>, piper asperges et inferes.

Chicken with dill: You will season with a little honey and sauce of fish. Take a cooked chicken and dry it with a clean linen, make incisions and put broth in the cuts so that it becomes soaked: and when it became impregnated you will roast it and with feathers brush it with its juice, sprinkle pepper and dish.

Pullus Parthicus. Pullum aperies a navi (pectore forte. nam infra pullum farsilem a pectore aperiri iubet. Sed Humelbergius partem posteriorem ventris accipit) et in quadrato ornas: teres piper, ligusticum, carei modicum: suffundes liquamen: vino temperas: componis in cumana pullum, et condituram super pullum facies, laser et vinum {inter illas} <in tepida>[2] dissolvis, et in pullum mittis simul et coques, piper asperges et inferes.

Parthian Chicken. You will open the chicken starting from belly (perhaps beginning from breast; in fact more ahead he says that a chicken to be stuffed must be open beginning from breast; but Gabriel Hummelberg means the rear belly) and arrange it in a square shape: you will mince pepper, lovage, a little caraway seeds: sprinkle sauce of fish: add wine: arrange the chicken in an earthenware of Cuma and pour the seasoning over the chicken, dissolve silphium and wine warming up them and put them together in the chicken, and let cook, sprinkle with pepper and dish.

Pullus oxyzomus. Olei acetabulum maiorem satis modice, liquaminis acetabulum minorem, aceti acetabulum perquam minorem, piperis scrupulos sex, petroselinum, porri fasciculum.

Chicken in hot sauce: A rather large acetabulum – a goblet for vinegar - of oil in restrained quantity, a smaller acetabulum of fish sauce, a further smaller acetabulum of vinegar, six scruples [around 7 g] of pepper, parsley, a posy of leek.

Pullus Numidicus[3], (qualis apud Numidas condiri solebat, aut potius ex pullis gallinae Numidicae.) Pullum curas, elixas, lavas, lasere et pipere aspersum assas: teres piper, cuminum, coriandri semen, laseris radicem, rutam, caryotam, nucleos: suffundis acetum, mel, liquamen: et oleo temperabis. Cum ferbuerit, amylo obligas: pullum perfundis: piper asperges et inferes.

Chicken in Numidian manner (as usually was seasoned among Numidians, or better, done with young fowls of Numidian hen). Get a chicken, boil it, wash it, roast it after has been sprinkled with silphium and pepper: you will mince pepper, cumin, seed of coriander, root of silphium, rue, date, kernels: sprinkle vinegar, honey, sauce of fish: and season with oil. When it is boiling, wrap up with starch: dip the chicken: sprinkle with pepper and dish.

Pullus laseratus[4]. Aperies a navi: lavabis, ornabis et in cumana ponis: teres piper, ligusticum, {laser, vinum} <laser vivum>[5]: suffundis liquamen: vino et liquamine temperabis, et mittis pullum: coctus si fuerit, pipere aspersum inferes.

Chicken with silphium: You will open it starting from belly: then wash it, garnish and put in an earthenware of Cuma: mince pepper, lovage, fresh silphium: sprinkle sauce of fish: you will season it with wine and fish sauce and cook the chicken: when cooked, after a pepper sprinkling dish it.

Pullus paroptus[6]. Laseris modicum, piperis scrupulos sex, olei acetabulum, liquaminis acetabulum, petroselini modicum.

Rare chicken - Roasted on surface. A little bit of silphium, 6 scruples of pepper [6.78 g], an acetabulum of oil, an acetabulum of sauce of fish, a very little bit of parsley.

Pullus elixus ex iure suo[7]. Teres piper, cuminum, thymi modicum, f{o}eniculi semen, mentham, rutam, laseris radicem: suffundis acetum: adijcies caryotam et teres: melle, aceto, liquamine et oleo temperabis: pullum refrigeratum et siccatum mittis, quem perfusum inferes.

Chicken boiled in its broth. You will mince pepper, cumin, a little bit of thyme, seed of fennel, mint, rue, root of silphium: pour vinegar: add date and mince: season with honey, vinegar, sauce of fish and oil: put there the cold and dry chicken which you will dish after it has been sprinkled.

Pullus elixus cum cucurbitis elixis[8]. Iure suprascripto addito sinape perfundis et inferes.

Boiled chicken with boiled pumpkins. After aforesaid broth has been added, pour on mustard and dish.

Pullus elixus cum colocasiis elixis[9]. Supradicto iure perfundis et inferes. {Facit} <Facis>[10] et in elixum cum olivis colymbadibus non valde (impletum,) ita ut laxamentum habeat, ne dissiliat dum coquitur in olla: submissum in sportellam cum bullierit, frequenter lavas et ponis ne dissiliat.

Boiled chicken with boiled taros: Pour the aforesaid broth on it and dish. You can also boil it, not too much (stuffed) with marinated olives so that there is some empty room and it doesn't break while cooking in pot: placed in a small basket after had boiled, you wash it several times and put it back so that it doesn't break.

Pullus Varianus[11], (a Vario[12] Heliogabalo fortassis, alias Vardanus.) Pullum coques iure hoc: liquamine, oleo, vino: fasciculum porri, coriandri, satureiae: cum coctus fuerit, teres piper, nucleos cyathos duos, et ius de suo sibi suffundis, et fasciculos proijcies, lacte temperas, et reexinanies in mortarium supra pullum ut ferveat: obligas cum albamentis ovorum tritis: ponis in lance, et iure suprascripto perfundis. Hoc ius candidum appellatur.

Chicken à la Varius (perhaps from Varius Heliogabalus, otherwise called à la Vardane). Boil the chicken in this broth: sauce of fish, oil, wine, a posy of leek, coriander, savory: when cooked you will mince pepper, two cyathi [100 ml] of kernels, and sprinkle it with its broth and you will throw away the posies, sweeten with milk, and you will drain it again in a mortar as well as the chicken so that it gets boiling: blend with beaten egg white: place in a tray and sprinkle with the aforesaid broth. This broth is said candid.

Pullus Frontonianus[13]. Pullum praedura, condies liquamine, oleo mixto, cui mittis fasciculum anethi, porri, satureiae, et coriandri viridis et coques: ubi coctus fuerit, levabis eum, in lance defruto perfundes, piper asperges et inferes.

Chicken à la Fronto [Marcus Cornelius Fronto?]. Let a chicken grow hard, you will season it with fish sauce mixed with oil adding a posy of dill, leek, savory and green coriander, and cook, when cooked take it out, sprinkle it in a tray with cooked wine, scatter pepper and dish.

Pullus tractogalatus[14], (a tracta et lacte quibus condiebatur, Humelbergius.) Pullum coques liquamine, oleo, vino: cui mittis fasciculum coriandri, cepam: deinde cum coctus fuerit, levabis eum de iure suo, et mittis in cacabum novum lac et salem modicum: mel et aquae minimum, id est tertiam partem, ponis ad ignem lentum ut tepescat: tractum confringis et mittis paulatim, assidue agitas ne uratur, pullum illic mittis integrum vel carptum, versabis in lance, quem perfundes iure tali. Piper, ligusticum, origanum: suffundis mel, et defrutum modicum: et ius de suo sibi temperas in cacabulo: facies ut bulliat: cum bullierit, amylo obligas et inferes.

Chicken with milk (tractogalatus from tracta, puff pastry, and lac, milk, by which it was seasoned, Gabriel Hummelberg). Let cook a chicken in fish sauce, oil, wine: to which you add a posy of coriander, some onion: then when cooked you will remove it from its broth and place milk in a new pot and a little bit of salt: simmer honey and a very little bit of water, that is, the third part, so that it tepefies: crumble puff pastry and add it bit by bit, stir frequently so that it doesn't burn, place the chicken whole or asunder, transfer it in a tray and sprinkle it with the following sauce: pepper, lovage, oregano: pour honey and a little bit of cooked wine, and sweeten its broth in a pot: bring it to boil: when boiling blend with starch and dish.

Pullus farsilis[15]. Pullum sic ne aliquid in eo remaneat, a cervice expedies: teres piper, ligusticum, zingiber, pulpam caesam, alicam elixam, teres cerebellum ex iure coctum: ova confringis et commisces ut unum corpus efficias: liquamine temperas, et oleum modice mittis, piper integrum, nucleos abundantes, fac inpensam, et imples pullum, vel porcellum ita ut laxamentum habeat. Similiter et in capo facies. Accipies pullum et ornas ut supra: aperies illum a pectore, et omnibus eiectis coques.

Stuffed chicken. You will prepare the chicken starting from neck so that nothing remains in it: mince pepper, lovage, ginger, chopped meat, boiled emmer, mince the brain cooked in broth: break some eggs and mix them until an unique mass is done: season them with fish sauce and put a little bit of oil, entire pepper, abundant kernels, prepare a stuffing and fill the chicken or the piggy so that it has an empty room. Likewise you will do also in the capon. You will take the chicken and garnish it as said before: you will open it starting from breast and will cook it after what is inside has been removed.

Pullus leucozomus[16]. Accipias aquam et oleum Hispanum abundans, agitatur ut ex se ambulet et humorem consumat: postea cum coctus fuerit, quodcunque olei remanserit, inde levas: piper asperges, et inferes.

Chicken in white sauce: You have to take water and plenty of Spanish oil, it is shaken so that it flows alone and hides the water: then, when cooked, whatever quantity of oil will be there, you remove it from there, sprinkle it with pepper and dish.

¶ In isicia de pullo[17]. Olei floris lib. 1. liquaminis quartarium, piperis semuncia.

Sausages of chicken. A pound [327.45 g] of very good oil, a fourth of sextarius [125 ml] of sauce of fish, one-half ounce [13.64 g] of pepper.

Aliter de pullo[18]. Piperis grana xxxi. conteres, mittis liquaminis optimi calicem, caraeni [caroeni] tantundem, aquae xi. mittes: et ad vaporem ignis pones.

Another kind of chicken sausages. You will mince thirty-one grains of pepper, add a goblet of best fish sauce and the same of cooked wine, you will pour eleven goblets of water and will place on the smoke of a fire.

Isicia de pavo[19] primum locum habent, ita si fricta fuerint ut callum vincant. secundum isicia de phasianis, tertium de cuniculis, quartum de pullis.

The peacock sausages have the top position if fried so that they lose hardness. The second place belongs to pheasant sausages, the third to those of rabbit, the fourth to those of chicken.

Aliter[20], (Isicium amylatum.) Ossicula de pullis expromas, deinde mittis in cacabum porros, anethum, salem: cum cocta fuerint, addes piper, apii semen: deinde orindam (forte oryzam, cuius et paulo ante meminerat in simili isicio amylato. sed Humelbergius ex Hesychio orindam interpretatur semen simile sesamae, etc.) infusam teres: addes liquamen et passum vel defrutum, omnia misces et cum isiciis inferes, Apicius 2.2.

Another recipe (Sausage with starch). You have to remove from chickens the little bones, then put in a pot leeks, dill, salt: when cooked you will add pepper, fennel seed, then mince brewed orinda (perhaps oryza - rice - which he had also mentioned shortly before in a quite similar sausage with starch. But Gabriel Hummelberg from Hesychius of Alexandria translates with orinda a seed similar to sesame, etc.): you will add fish sauce and raisin or boiled wine, mix all this and dish with sausages, Apicius 2nd, 2.

¶ Gallus cum oxyliparo apponitur Dipnosophistis apud Athenaeum lib. {8} <9>.[21] Γαλεούς καὶ βατίδας ὅσα τε τῶν γενῶν ἐν ὀξυλιπάρῳ τρίμματι σκευάζεται, Timocles Comicus. Est autem forte oxyliparum trimma[22] [389] seu condimentum, idem aut simile quale supra in pullo oxyzomo Apicius descripsit, quod conficitur aceto, liquamine et oleo quae lipara, id est pinguia sunt, etc. Invenio oxyliparon genus esse iuris in quo raiae ac caeteri eius naturae pisces mandi soleant, Hermolaus.

In Athenaeus, 9th book,  a rooster with vinegar and oil is served to Dipnosophists. Galeoús kaì batídas hósa te tôn genôn en oxylipárøi trímmati skeuázetai. - Sharks and rays and quite a lot of subjects of this kind are prepared in a piquant and fat sauce, Timocles the comic poet. For perhaps the oxyliparum is the trimma or seasoning, alike or similar to that Apicius described before in chicken with piquant sauce, which is made with vinegar, fish sauce and oil, which are lipara, that is, fat, etc. I find that oxyliparon is a kind of juice in which usually rays and other fishes of this kind are eaten, Ermolao Barbaro.


388


[1] VI,9,1.a.-1.b.: 1.a. In pullo elixo ius crudum: adicies in mortarium anethi semen, mentam siccam, laseris radicem, suffundis acetum, adicies caryotam, refundis liquamen, sinapis modicum et oleum, defrito temperas et sic mittis. - 1,b. Pullum anethatum: mellis modice, liquamine temperabis. levas pullum coctum et sabano mundo siccas, caraxas et ius scissuris infundis, ut combibat, et cum combiberit, assabis et suo sibi iure pinnis tangis. piper aspersum inferes. (http://www.fh-augsburg.de)

[2] http://www.fh-augsburg.de: laser [et] vivum in tepida dissolvis,[...].

[3] VI,9,4.

[4] VI,9,5.

[5] http://www.fh-augsburg.de: laser vivum, [...].

[6] VI,9,6.

[7] VI,9,7.

[8] VI,9,9.

[9] VI,9,10.

[10] VI,9,11. - http://www.fh-augsburg.de: Facis et in elixa[...].

[11] VI,9,12.

[12] Lampridio Elagabalus o Heliogabalus (Marcus Aurelius Antoninus) I.1: Vitam Heliogabali Antonini, qui Varius etiam dictus est,[...]

[13] VI,9,13.

[14] VI,9,14.

[15] VI,9,15.

[16] VI,9,16.

[17] II,2,3.

[18] II,2,4.

[19] II,2,6.

[20] II,2,9.

[21] IX,34,385a. § Giustamente Lind (1963) dà un’altra referenza - 9.385 - e sottolinea che gallus è un qui pro quo: il testo greco dice Galeoús, che è l’accusativo plurale di galeós, il pescecane.

[22] Il sostantivo greco neutro trîmma – da tríbø, trebbiare, tritare – è una cosa logorata, una raschiatura, una salsa, frammenti di qualcosa.