Conrad Gessner
Historiae animalium liber III qui est de Avium natura - 1555
De Gallo Gallinaceo
transcribed by Fernando Civardi - translated by Elio Corti
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Ius
gallinaceum cum amygdalis: Cape tibi selibram amygdalarum, tres ovorum
vitellos exiguos, iecuscula gallinarum, panis e simila modum duorum
ovorum, cremae lactis quantum semiobolo emitur, ius gallinae veteris
perfecte coctum. Tum amygdalas contusas cum iure percolando exprime, et
da. Vel pone prius in hoc iure sic parato pullum prius coctum, et modice
simul effervere sinito, ut densiusculum fiat: et modicum cinnamomi,
caryophyllorum salisque addito, Baltasar Stendelius. |
Broth
of chicken with almonds:
Take half a pound [around 160 g] of almonds, three small egg's yolks,
hen’s livers, extra fine bread corresponding to two eggs, as much as
milk cream can be brought with half an obol,
broth of old hen properly boiled. Then squeeze the almonds minced with
the broth filtering them through a strainer, and serve. Or firstly place
in this broth so prepared a previously boiled chicken, and let them boil
together a little bit so that it becomes a bit more concentrated and add
a little cinnamon,
clove
and salt. Balthasar Staindl. |
Ex eodem ius
viride pro gallina (aut pullo): Pyret<h>ro, sampsucho, petroselino
minutatim dissectis vinum affunde, simul agita, {saccharum}
<saccharon> et aromatis aliquid adde, et affunde iuri in quo
gallina cocta est: nec amplius coquito ne color viridis evanescat. |
From
the same author A
green broth for a hen (or a young chicken).
After Roman pellitory
- or Mount Atlas daisy, marjoram
and parsley have been finely grinded, pour wine over them, shake them
jointly, add sugar and some spice, and pour in the broth in which the
hen has cooked, and don’t cook her any further lest the green color
disappears. |
Conditura pro
gallinis elixis: Gallinam elixam integram, vel in partes divisam, bene
purgatam in ollam inde, permodicum aquae affunde cum pauco vino dulci,
et butyri modicum adde, et pollinis aromatici nonnihil de macere[1],
cinnamomo, caryophyllis. Cura diligenter ne diutius ad ignem maneat hoc
ferculum. fit enim prorsus inutile. Tolles cum ad russum colorem gallina
vergit, et ius mediocre habet. Si dulce placuerit, saccarum per se vel
cum aromatibus adijcies. |
Seasoning
for boiled hens:
Place in a pot an entire boiled hen or divided asunder, well polished
up, pour very little water with little sweet wine and add some butter
and a little bit of aromatic powder gotten from nutmeg
or mace, cinnamon and cloves. Avoid carefully that this course remains
too much time on fire. For it becomes quite unusable. You will remove it
from fire when the hen is verging on red and has little broth. If you
like it sweet, add sugar alone or with spices. |
Aliud edulium
de pullis vel capis cum pane tosto, etc. ex eodem. ipse Germanice vocat
plutzte huener. Pullos aut capos assos frustatim dissectos saccharo cum
aromatibus condies, ac vino dulci perfundes, imponesque segmentis e pane
albo tostis eodem vino dulci madentibus. frigidum impones. |
Again
from Balthasar Staindl Another
food made with chickens or capons with toasted bread etc.
He in German calls it plutzte huener. Season roasted and cut
asunder chickens or capons with sugar along with spices and sprinkle
them with sweet wine and place them on toasted slices of white bread
soaked in the same sweet wine. You will serve cold. |
Condimentum
quo gallina vel pullus farcitur. iecur et ventriculum e gallina manu
diligenter eximes, ita ne quid frangas. haec minutatim concisa cum ovo
permisce, et croceum colorem adde si placet. addes et olus viride
concisum, vel uvas passas minores: his immissis pollinem aromaticum
affundes et ventrem gallinae religabis, eamque in olla coques eo genere
quod suffucationem vocant, (verdempffen). Caeterum pro gallina assanda,
condimentum hoc in patella mixtum cum ovo subiges, et in ventrem
immittes, Idem. Praescribit et alios quosdam modos, (ein angelegre henn/knödle
von hennen<)> quos brevitatis gratia relinquo. |
Seasoning
by which a hen or a chicken are stuffed.
With the hand you will carefully remove from the hen the liver and the
gizzard so that nothing is broken. When finely cut up, mix them with an
egg, and, if you wish, add a saffron coloring. You will add as well
crushed kale, or small raisin: after these ingredients have been placed
you will scatter spice dust and stitch up the belly of the hen and cook
her in a pot in the fashion they call stewed (verdempffen).
Moreover, to make a roast hen, mix in a frying pan this seasoning
blended with an egg and you will put it in the belly, again Balthasar
Staindl. He suggests some other manners too (ein angelegre henn/knödle
von hennen) which
I am omitting for shortness reasons. |
Aliqui
gallinam pullam in optimo vino albo discoquunt, et dissolutam coctione
diutina exprimunt, colantque ius, et cum ovi vitello ad ignem miscent.
hac sorbitione prostratas aegrorum vires mirifice restaurari aiunt. ¶
Liquamen quomodo fiat ex adipe gallinaceo et anserino, vide in Sue F. ex
Platina ¶ Porcelli dimidia parte assi et dimidia elixi, fartique turdis
ac ventriculis gallinaceis, Athenaeus meminit libro 9. ¶ Mutagenat, est
cibus qui fit in aliquo vase cum lacte seminum communium (cucurbitarum
generis,) iure gallinae et vitellis ovorum. conditur autem saccharo et
polline qui constat cinnamomo, spica, cubebis, calamo aromatico et cari
semine. coquitur ad ignem, et apposita super vas testa calida,
Sylvaticus. |
Some
people cook properly a young hen in excellent white wine and squeeze her
when crumbled with a long cooking, and strain the broth and mix it on
fire with an egg yolk. They say that by this drink are marvelously
restored the prostrate energies of sick people. ¶ How a juice can be
prepared from fat of hen and goose, see in pig's chapter paragraph F
drawn from Platina.
¶ Athenaeus
in 9th book - 19,376c-d
- quotes the piglet half roast, half boiled and
stuffed with thrushes
and chicken's gizzards. ¶
Mutagenat
is a food prepared in a terracotta vase with a lactescent juice of
common seeds (of Cucurbitaceae genus), with hen’s broth and egg
yolks. It is seasoned with sugar and an aromatic mixture done with
cinnamon, matgrass,
cubeb pepper,
sweet flag
and German cumin
seeds. It is cooked on fire and after a hot terracotta cover has been
placed on the vase, Matteo Silvatico.
|
¶ Ex
volucrium genere gallinae (gallinaceum genus) omnibus praestant. sint
autem altiles, Aëtius in cura colici affectus. Avium caro minus nutrit
quam quadruped<i>um, sed facilius concoquitur, praecipue perdicis,
attagenis, columbae, gallinae et galli, Galenus 3. de alimentis. Idem in
libro de cibis boni et mali succi enumerans cibaria laudata, et neque
tenuem neque crassum succum (aut sanguinem) gignentia, adnumerat ex
avibus gallos et gallinas, etc. quod et in aliis libris ab eo repetitur,
et secutis eum authoribus aliis. Temperatum bonumque sanguinem
ornithopula (id est pulli gallinacei) gignunt nec tenuem nec crassum
plus iusto, Simeon Sethi. Gallinae (et pullorum gallinaceorum, Sethi)
caro facile concoquitur, Galenus in libro de diff. continui. Minus
suavis est quam phasiani, sed similis ei in coctione et nutrimento,
Ibidem. Gallinae caro accomoda est siccis, Galen. 6. de sanit. tuenda.
Gallinacei utiles sunt calidis et siccis, Idem 8. Methodi. Gallinae
co<ho>rtales non edendae sunt homini qui {ociose} <otiose>
vivat, sed montanae potius, Idem in libro de atten. victu. Gallinacei
pulli prosunt iis qui minus se exercent et otiosis, (hoc Galenus non
concedit, cuius haec sunt verba: Gallinaceae carnis usum, iis quibus
ratione victus tenui opus est, exercitatis quidem non prohibeo,
praesertim earum quae in montibus fuerint educatae, at qui se non
exercent, iis gallinacea carne minus utendum est. alis tamen gallinarum
vel in tenui victus ratione vesci licebit: quanquam neque viscera, neque
gallinaceorum testes huic diaetae sunt idonea.) et simul quibus facile
obstruuntur meatus. his insuper qui stomachum calidum habent, unaque
alvum promovent, Symeon Sethi. Gallinarum (vel gallinaceorum pullorum)
caro secundo loco est quo ad bonum succum generandum post attagenas,
praesertim si pinguis fuerit. talis etiam corpus humectat et otiosos
iuvat, coloremque bonum comparat, et genitali semini adijcit, et cerebri
substantiam auget. et in primis earum (vel pullorum) medulla. haec enim
cerebrum abunde nutrit. et idcirco aiunt, quod his qui leviori ingenio
ac mente sunt, prodest, Idem. Caro pullorum gallinaceorum (gallinarum
alfethi[2])
intellectum auget. vocem clariorem reddit, et genituram in iuvenibus
auget, Avicenna. Gallorum veterum caro astringit, ius solvit. (vide
infra in G.) gallinarum
vero ius astringit, Galenus in opere de simplicibus, et ad Pisonem[3].
Galli excipiuntur a cibis ictericorum, nisi moderate carnosi fuerint, in
libello de cura icteri qui Galeno adscribitur. Pullus cohortalis quo
tenerior est, eo minus alimenti praestat, Celsus[4].
Inter aves melior est caro alduragi, (id est francolini, Bellunensis) et
gallinarum est subtilior ea. et non sunt cum nutrimento carnium
alchabugi, et altaiaigi et altedarigi, Avicenna. Gallinae succum gignunt
temperatum, nam neque calidae sunt, ut facile in bilem abeant: [391] nec
frigidae, ut pituitam augeant. |
¶
Among birds' genus the hens (the gallinaceous genus) are above
all. But they have to be battery hens, Aetius of Amida
when speaking about treatment of colic diseases. The meat of birds
nourishes less than that of quadrupeds, but is more easily digested,
above all that of partridge, francolin,
pigeon, hen and rooster, Galen
3rd book of De alimentorum facultatibus. Always he in De
probis pravisque alimentorum sucis - or De bonis malisque sucis
- when listing the approved foods and not producing a humor (or blood)
neither too much fluid nor dense, he quotes among birds the roosters and
the hens, etc. Which is also by him repeated in other treatises and by
other authors his followers. The ornithopula (that is, the
chickens) give a production of rightly compounded and good blood, and it
is neither more fluid nor thicker than fitting, Simeon Sethi.
The meat of hen (and of chickens, Sethi) is easily digested, Galen in
the book De differentia symptomatum (?). It is less tasteful than
that of pheasant, but it is similar as far as digestibility and
nourishing power is concerned, in the same treatise. The meat of hen is
suitable for those who are dehydrated, Galen 6th De
sanitate tuenda. The chickens are useful for those who are hot and
dehydrated, always he in 8th book of Methodus medendi.
Courtyard hens have not to be eaten by a human being living in idleness,
but rather those of mountain, always he in the treatise De victu
attenuante - or De subtiliante diaeta. The chickens are good
for those doing little physical activity and for idle ones (Galen
doesn't agree on this, and his words are as follows: I don't forbid the
use of chicken meat by those needing a scant food if they took some
exercise, above all of those hens bred in mountain, but those who don't
take exercise have to use meat of chicken in lesser quantity.
Nevertheless it will be allowed anyway to feed on wings of hens when the
need of food is little: nevertheless neither entrails nor roosters'
testicles are proper for this kind of diet.) and at the same time for
those easily running into intestinal sub-occlusion. Moreover for those
having inflamed stomach and diarrhea at the same time, Simeon Sethi. The
meat of hens (or of chickens) has the second place after francolins in
order to produce good blood, above all if is fat. Such a meat makes the
body damp and is useful to idle ones, and gets a beautiful complexion,
and makes the genital seed increasing, and strengthens the cerebral
substance. And in first place the marrow of hens (or of chickens). In
fact it plenty nourishes the brain. And therefore they say that it is
useful to those having a rather weak intelligence and mind, always
Simeon Sethi. The meat of chickens (of hens that didn't lay yet)
increases the intelligence. It makes more ringing the voice and in young
people makes the sperm increasing, Avicenna.
The meat of old roosters acts as intestinal astringent, their broth acts
as laxative (see below in G). But the broth of hens acts as astringent,
Galen in De simplicium medicamentorum temperamentis et facultatibus,
and in De theriaca ad Pisonem. The roosters are excluded from
feeding of jaundice patients, unless the former are little fleshy, in
the booklet De cura icteri ascribed to Galen. The courtyard
chicken as much is tender as less supplies food, Celsus.
Among birds is better the meat of alduragi (that is of francolin,
Andrea Alpago)
and that of hens is more tender than former. And are not belonging to
nourishing meats the alchabugi, and the altaiaigi and the altedarigi,
Avicenna. The hens give a juice of right composition, in fact they
aren't neither warm so to easily turn into bile: nor cold, so to foster
the cold. |
[1] Il sostantivo greco neutro indeclinabile máker oppure mákeir indica in Dioscoride l’arillo profumato della noce moscata (Lorenzo Rocci). Arillo č l’involucro che si sviluppa attorno all'ovulo dei vegetali a partire dal funicolo, di aspetto generalmente carnoso e che permane ad avvolgere il seme, in parte o completamente, come per esempio quello rosso, ricco di sostanze zuccherine del tasso o albero della morte, Taxus baccata. – In latino il vocabolo greco suona macir in Plinio Naturalis historia XII,32: Et macir ex India advehitur, cortex rubens radicis magnae, nomine arboris suae. – Pierandrea Mattioli fa una lunga disquisizione a proposito dell’identificazione sia del máker di Dioscoride che dell’equivalente macir di Plinio, ma per brevitŕ accettiamo quanto riferito da Lorenzo Rocci, e accettiamo macere invece di macir, in quanto macer viene declinato da Mattioli come sostantivo latino maschile. – In italiano macir si č trasformato in macis, che č il nome commerciale dell'involucro carnoso – dell’arillo - che avvolge il seme della noce moscata: da fresco ha colore rosso vivo e diventa giallo rossastro quand'č essiccato.
[2] Pagina 415: Gallinae alfethi, secundum expositores Arabes, sunt gallinae quae nondum pepererunt ova, Andrea Bellunen.
[3] Pierandrea Mattioli dŕ come referenza solamente il De simplicium medicamentorum temperamentis et facultatibus di Galeno. - Pierandrea Mattioli Commentarii in libros sex Pedacii Dioscoridis Anazarbei De Materia Medica, 1554, pag. 186: Tametsi Gallinarum ius simplex (ut Galeno proditum est libro XI. simplicium medicamentorum) retinendi vim habeat; gallorum tamen veterum cum sale diutius decoctorum, subducendi facultatem obtinet. – Se non vogliamo leggere la Teriaca, č giocoforza credere a Gessner.
[4] De medicina II,18,8: Neque vero in generibus rerum tantummodo discrimen est, sed etiam in ipsis; quod et aetate fit et membro et solo et caelo et habitu. Nam quadrupes omne animal, si lactens est, minus alimenti praestat, itemque quo tenerior pullus cohortalis est; in piscibus quoque media aetas, quae non summam magnitudinem inplevit.