Conrad Gessner

Historiae animalium liber III qui est de Avium natura - 1555

De Gallo Gallinaceo

transcribed by Fernando Civardi - translated by Elio Corti

389

 


The navigator's option display ->  character ->  medium is recommended

¶ Qui morbo regio aestivo laborat, obsonium edat pullum gallinaceum percoctum, probe conditum cum cepa, coriandro, caseo, sale, sesamo, et uva passa alba, Hippocrates in libro de internis affectionibus. Egregia quaedam condimenta pro pullis coctis describit Ant. G<u>ainerius in capite de restaurando appetitu.

¶ He who suffers from summer jaundice has to feed on chicken well cooked and well seasoned with onion, coriander, cheese, salt, sesame and white raisin. Hippocrates in the treatise De internis affectionibus. Antonio Guainerio describes some excellent seasonings for boiled chickens in the chapter concerning the recovery of the appetite.

¶ Pullus in agresta. Pullum cum salita carne decoquito: ubi semicoctus fuerit, grana uvae sublatis e medio vinaceis, in cacabum ferventem indito: petroselinum et mentham minutatim concidito, piper et crocum in pulverem conterito. Haec omnia in cacabum, ubi pullastra cocta fuerit, conijcito, ac patinam statim facito. Hoc obsonio nil salubrius, admodum enim alit, facile concoquitur. stomacho, cordi, hepati, renibus convenit, ac bilem reprimit, Platina lib. 6. cap. 16[1].

Chicken in agresta. Cook the chicken with salty meat for a long time: when it is half cooked, put in the hot pot some grape-seeds taken from the center of marcs: chop up properly parsley and mint, grind pepper and saffron. Throw all these ingredients in the pot where meanwhile the pullet has cooked, and immediately prepare a course. Nothing is more healthful than this food, for it is extremely nourishing, is easily digested, is good for stomach, heart, liver, kidneys, and suppresses anger, Platina book 6th chapter 16th.

Et mox cap. 17[2]. Pullus assus. Pullum bene depilatum, exinanitum et lotum assabis. asso, atque in patinam imposito, antequam refrige<r>at, aut succum mali medici[3], aut agrestam cum aqua rosacea, saccaro ac cinnamo bene trito infundes, convivisque appones. Hoc Bucino[4] non displicet, qui acria (acida) simul ac dulcia appetit, ut bilem reprimat et corpus obeset. Idem 6.9.[5] praescribit quomodo paretur pastillus ex quavis carne animantis cicuris, ut vituli, capi, gallinae et similium. Eiusdem e lib. 6. cap. 15.[6] de porcello lactente condimentis quibusdam farciendo assandoque verba recitavi in Sue G. Idem autem (inquit) fieri potest ex <ansere>, anate, <gru{a}e>, capo, pullastra.

And soon after, in chapter 17th: Roast chicken. You will roast a well plucked, emptied and washed chicken. When roasted and placed in a course dish, before it cools you will pour on it either juice of an apple from Media – of an orange, or better, of a citron -, or agresta with rose water, syrup of cane sugar and cinnamon well minced, and you will serve to guests. This recipe is not displeasing to Bucinus who is greedy for things which are at the same time pungent (sour) and sweet, to repress anger and fatten up the body. Still Platina in 6th,9 gives instructions about how to prepare a pie based on any kind of meat from domestic animal, as calf, capon, hen and similar. Of Platina I quoted in pig's paragraph G the words drawn from 6th,15 regarding the sucking pig to be stuffed and roasted with some sauces. And he says: the same can be done with goose, duck, crane, capon, pullet.

¶ Qui icteri prima specie laborat, obsonium edat pullum gallinaceum percoctum probe conditum cum cepa, coriandro, caseo, sale, sesamo et uva passa alba, Hippocrates in libro de internis affectionibus.[7]

¶ He who begins to show jaundice has to feed on a well cooked and seasoned chicken with onion, coriander, cheese, salt, sesame and white raisin,  Hippocrates in the treatise De internis affectionibus.

¶ Ex capis aut pullastris Mirause[8] Catellonicum[9], Platinae verbis describemus in Capo F.

¶ With Platina's words I will describe the Catalan mirause in the chapter of the Capon paragraph F.

¶ E pullastris pastilli, ex libro Germanico Baltasaris Stendelii. Pastillo confecto pullastras rite paratas membris confractis impone: et pro magnitudine pastilli tria aut quatuor ova addito, salem, et zinziber satis abunde. per aestatem convenit etiam uvas passas Corinthiacas addi, ut caponibus quoque et aliquid butyri recentis. operculum etiam facies quale pro pastillo e capone praescribitur, et ovis illines. Horis duabus coques. Quod si frigidum habere malis, ius per foramen superius effundito, et pingui separato flatu, idem rursus affundito.

Pies of pullets drawn from the book in German of Balthasar Staindl. After you prepared the wrap of pastry, put on it the pullets prepared as usual with disjointed limbs: and, according to the size of pastry wrap, add three or four eggs, salt and a fair bit of ginger. In summer it is worthwhile to add also raisins of Corinth, as to capons too, and some fresh butter. You will also prepare a covering as prescribed for capon pie, and sprinkle it with eggs. Let cook for two hours. But if you prefer it cold, pour out the broth through the upper hole and after the fat has been separated with a blow, pour it on again.

Cum pulli in olla operta coquuntur, vel assantur potius in butyro, affuso etiam vino modico cum semiassi sunt, nostri hoc genus cocturae vocant verdempffen. Latine forsan suffocare dixeris, quemadmodum ova pnicta[10], id est suffocata Graeci efferunt.

When chickens are cooked in closed pot, or when are roasted preferably in butter with also a sprinkling of a little wine when half roasted, our people call this kind of cooking as verdempffen, in Latin perhaps you could say suffocare – to smother, so as Greeks call pnictà - cooked in a well closed pot - the eggs, that is, smothered.

Sunt qui uvarum acinos cum pullo in olla operta coquant. deinde conterunt, exprimunt, et rursus ad pullum affundunt cum butyro, Baltasar Stendelius.

There are some people cooking grapes along with the chicken in a pot closed with cover: then they crush, squeeze and pour them again on the chicken with butter, Balthasar Staindl.

Et rursus ad idem, Pullos rite paratos in ollam inde, vinum et ius carnium affunde, cum modico salis et aromatici pollinis crocei. quod si iusculum crassius desideras, segmenta duo panis albi tosta bullienti iuri inijcito, cum ferbuerint, extractis una cum iecore tritis exprimito succum colando per aromaticum pollinem, et rursus affundito, et perfecte coqui sinito. Sunt qui limonum (quae poma sunt de genere citreorum) segmenta cum pullis elixant, quae deinde iis cum inferuntur imponunt, etc.

And again for a stew: Put inside a pot the chickens prepared as usual, add wine and meats’ broth with some salt and aromatic flour of saffron. But if you desire a more fat little broth, put in the broth when boiling two toasted slices of white bread, when they come to the boil, after they have been taken out and minced with the liver, squeeze the juice and strain it through the aromatic flour, and put it back in the pot, and let it cook properly. There are some people cooking with chickens some slices of lemon (which is a fruit of citron's kind) and then put slices on them when are served, etc.

¶ Pullos elixos vel suffocatos, ut diximus, nostri aliquando cum pisis recentibus seorsim coctis inferre solent.

¶ As I said, sometimes our fellow countrymen usually put on table cooked or stewed chickens with fresh peas cooked apart.

¶ Gelu cum expresso succo carnis gallinacei pulli, in Gallia usitatum pro febrientibus et aliis ad vires restaurandas. Carnem pulli et pedes vituli aut vervecis discoques donec caro incipiat dissolvi, tum percolabis et exprimes succum, cui adijcies bonam partem sacchari ac pollinis cinnamomi: purificabis cum albuminibus et testis ovorum, colabis denuo, addesque crocum, aut aliud quippiam pro colore quem {desyderas} <desideras>, viride, rubrum, etc. si acidum placuerit, aceti aliquid, vel rob, id est defrutum aliquod eius saporis, ut de ribes aut berberis addi potest.

The ice with juice made by squeezing chicken's meat is used in France for those who have fever and for others to bring back their energies. You will cook for a long time flesh of chicken and foot of calf or of castrated ram until the meat begins to dissolve, thereafter you will filter it and press out the juice, to which you will add a good quantity of sugar and powdered cinnamon: you will purify it with egg whites and eggshells, strain it a second time and add saffron or something else of green, red, etc., according to the color you desire. If you like it sour, some vinegar can be added, or rob, that is, a juice of the same taste as that obtained from currant, or of barberry.

¶ Cibarium contusum: Gallinam vel caponem percoquito donec carnes bene mollescant, et in pila pulpam una cum ossibus contunde. quod si parum carnis fuerit, licebit etiam segmenta albissimi panis simul conterere. tum una cum iure omnia per aeneum vas colatorium exprimes, modicum generosi vini, et croci aromatumque quantum satis videbitur adijcies, et coques aliquandiu, cum inferre volueris, panem tostum subijcies, interdum ova extra testam in aqua cocta impones. Reliquias etiam gallinarum et caponum a mensa, carnes scilicet cum ossibus aliqui tundunt, et ferculum parant: cui nonnulli elixum hepar agninum contusum adijciunt. Hic cibus puerperis, et iis qui venam secuerint convenit, Baltasar Stendelius.

Crushed dish: Cook a hen or a capon for a long time until the meats are quite soft and crush the pulp with the bones in a mortar. But if there is little meat it is possible to crush together some chunks of very white bread. Then strain the whole along with the broth through a bronze sieve, you will add some good wine, and a quantity of saffron and spices you think enough, and you will cook for some time, and when you will serve, place beneath toasted bread, sometimes you will place over shelled eggs cooked in water. Some also crush leftovers of hens and capons, that is, bones with meat, and prepare a course: to which some add lamb’s liver boiled and crushed. This food is suitable for those who have just born a child and for those who have been bled, Balthasar Staindl.

¶ Si vespertinus subito te oppresserit hospes, | Ne gallina malum responset dura palato, | Doctus eris vivam misto mersare {falerno} <Falerno>: | Hoc teneram faciet, Horatius 2. Serm.[11] Nux pullo inclusa illum longe celerius coqui facit, Cor. Agrippa.

¶ If suddenly an evening guest will overtake you, in order that the hen doesn't come out unpleasantly hard for the palate, you will be crafty in dipping her alive in new Falernian wine: this will soften her, Horace Satirae 2nd – or Sermones as he calls them. A walnut inserted in the chicken lets it cook very more quickly, Heinrich Cornelius Agrippa von Nettesheim.

¶ In pastillum gallinaceum. Cristas pullorum trifariam, iecuscula quadrifariam dividito: testiculos integros relinquito, laridum tessellatim concidito, nec tundito. duas aut tres uncias vitulinae adipis minutatim concidito, aut loco adipis medullam bubulam aut vitulinam addito. Gingiberis, cinnami, saccari, quantum satis erit sumito. Haecque omnia cum cerasis acribus (acidis) ac siccis ad quadraginta misceto, inditoque in pastillum ad id apte ex farina subacta factum. In furno aut sub textu in foco decoqui potest. Semicoctum ubi fuerit, duo vitella ovorum disfracta, modicum croci et agrestae superinfundes, Platina 6. 38.[12]

For a chicken’s pie: Divide in three parts the combs of the chickens and their livers in four parts: keep the testicles entire, cut up the lard into small squares and don't pound it: cut up into small morsels two or three ounces [around 50-75 g] of calf fat, or in place of fat add marrow of ox or calf. Take as much as enough of ginger, cinnamon and sugar. And mix all these things with about forty sour (acid) and dry cherries, and put them in a suitable wrap of pastry made with kneaded flour. This can be cooked in oven or on fire under a dish towel. When it is half cooked pour on two beaten egg yolks, some saffron and agresta, Platina 6th,38.

¶ Edulium in asthmate et aliis affectionibus pectoris, cum aegri infirmi sunt admodum. Pullum vel gallinam iuvenem pinguem cum ordeo puro discoquito donec liquefiat, tum tere pullum pulpa et ossibus, et parum ptisanae infunde, exprime, cola. praestabit quidem pullo dum teritur aquam rosaceam affundere, [390] et diligenter miscere, Arnoldus in libro de aquis. Idem in libro de conservanda sanitate: Album ferculum (inquit) de pullis gallinarum frequenter sumi poterit, modo ne fiat de pulpis effilatis, (sic loquitur) sed ex transverso subtiliter incisis: et postea contritis ac ligatis cum lacte amygdalarum, paucove amylo aut polline oryzae.

Food in case of asthma and other thorax diseases, when patients are very ill. Cook properly a chicken or a young fat hen with pure barley until became mash, then grind up the chicken with pulp and bones and mix a little barley decoction, squeeze, strain. But it will be useful to pour on chicken, while it is minced, water of roses and to remix carefully, Arnaldus from Villanova in the book De aquis. The same author in the book De conservanda sanitate says: Often a white dish will be eaten made with young chickens of hens, as long as it is not done with stringy fleshes (he says so), but cut in thin bits transversally: and then crushed and amalgamated with milk of almonds or with little starch or rice flour.


389


[1] In Libellus platine de honesta voluptate ac valitudine, Bononiae, per Johannem Antonium Platonidem, 1499, questa ricetta si trova al capitolo 15.

[2] In Libellus platine de honesta voluptate ac valitudine, Bononiae, per Johannem Antonium Platonidem, 1499, questa ricetta si trova al capitolo 16.

[3] II,5 – de coctoneis – Coctonea dici cum de malis loquimur: et non coctona. Varronis ac Plinii auctoritate manifestum est: qui coctona inter ficus commemorant. [...] mala medica: quae vulgo narantia vocamus [...]. (Libellus platine de honesta voluptate ac valitudine, Bononiae, per Johannem Antonium Platonidem, 1499) – Probabilmente si tratta di un qui pro quo di Platina. La narantia dovrebbe etimologicamente corrispondere all’arancia, mentre il malum medicum fin dai tempi dei Romani corrispondeva al cedro. Siccome per Platina il malum medicum è l’arancia e prescrive una spremuta di mali medici, è giocoforza tradurlo con arancia, anche se un antico Romano avrebbe inteso una spremuta di cedro.

[4] It is difficult to determine whether this name is a mistake by Aldrovandi [Platina!!!] for Dominicus Bucius, who wrote Quaesita III Medicinalia, juxta Hippocratis, et Galeni mentem examinata (ed. by A. Bucci, Venice, 1551; another ed., Leyden, 1577). A certain Bucinense (Niccolò degli Angeli) edited the Scriptores Rei Rusticae (Florence, 1515, 1521), but he is probably not referred to here. (Aldrovandi on Chickens, Lind, 1963) - Niccolò Angeli, detto Angelo Buccinese, insigne latinista del XVI secolo, di Bucine in provincia di Arezzo.

[5] In Libellus platine de honesta voluptate ac valitudine, Bononiae, per Johannem Antonium Platonidem, 1499, questa ricetta si trova al capitolo 10.

[6] In Libellus platine de honesta voluptate ac valitudine, Bononiae, per Johannem Antonium Platonidem, 1499, questa ricetta si trova al capitolo 14.

[7] Prescrizione già citata per l’itterizia estiva all’inizio di questa pagina.

[8] Nel testo anonimo in catalano Sent Sovi (1324) suona come Mig-raust. Mastro Martino, dal quale il Platina ha tratto la ricetta, in italiano medievale lo chiama Mirrause e Roberto di Nola nel suo testo in catalano scrive Mirraust. Mig raust in tedesco visigoto significa mezzo arrostito, come mi ha specificato Marie Josèphe Moncorgé in una preziosa e-mail del 16 agosto 2005:En effet, mig raust = à moitié rôti, en allemand wisigoth. Comment ce mot a-t-il survécu jusque dans une recette catalane du 14e? En tous cas, mig raust devient mirrause chez Martino, mirrauste chez Robert de Nola, miraus chez Scappi.” – Nella trascrizione del testo di Roberto di Nola a mia disposizione (Lybre de doctrina Pera ben Servir: de Tallar: y del Art de Coch) sta scritto Mirraust, e non una volta sola, ma credo che il vocabolo possa considerarsi equivalente a Mirrauste.

[9] In Platina - Libellus platine de honesta voluptate ac valitudine, Bononiae, per Johannem Antonium Platonidem, 1499 - esiste solo catellonicum:

VI,12 Mirause catellonicum

VI,32 Patina catellonica

VI,41 Cibarium album catellionicum – che però suona catellonicum nell’indice

VII,60 Carabazum catellonicum

VII,72 Leucophagum catellonicum

L’aggettivo sostantivato Catellani – e non Catelloni - è usato da Platina in Liber VI,12 – Mirause catellonicum – Catellani gens quidem lauta: et quae ingenio ac corpore italicae solertiae haud multum dissimilis habetur obsonium: quod mirause illi vocant: sic condiunt [...]

In Aldrovandi il mirause ricorre una sola volta e possiamo ipotizzare – ma solo ipotizzare - che egli abbia desunto l’aggettivo Catellanicum che l’accompagna dal suo maestro l’Ornitologo, cioè da Conrad Gessner.

Dal momento che catellonicum potrebbe essere un’abituale variante di catellanicum, il Catellanicum di Gessner e di Aldrovandi non viene corretto. E che catellonicum possa essere una comune variante di catellanicum possiamo arguirlo dal testo di Gessner in cui il mirause ricorre due volte – prima come catellonicum e poi come catellanicum - salvo che Catellanicum sia un puro errore tipografico: pag. 413: Mirause Catellanicum: Catellani gens quidem lauta, et quae ingenio ac corpore Italicae solertiae haud multum dissimilis habetur, obsonium, quod mirause illi vocant, sic condiunt: [...] – La conferma a questa mia decisione di accettare sia catellanicum che catellonicum mi giunge dal Dr Thomas Gloning - Institut für Germanistische Sprachwissenschaft, Università di Marburgo, Germania - il quale così mi ha risposto con una e-mail del 17 settembre 2005: M.E. Milham, dans l'édition de Platine, ne change pas _catellonicus_, donc je pense que c'est une forme assez régulière dans le temps. Aussi, la variation entre des differentes formes était plus grand à ce temps qu'aujourd'hui.

[10] L’aggettivo greco pniktós significa soffocato, strangolato, cotto in vaso ben chiuso, stufato.

[11] Satirae II,4,17-20: Si vespertinus subito te oppresserit hospes,|ne gallina malum responset dura palato,|doctus eris vivam musto mersare Falerno:|hoc teneram faciet.

[12] In Libellus platine de honesta voluptate ac valitudine, Bononiae, per Johannem Antonium Platonidem, 1499, questa ricetta si trova al capitolo 37.