Ulisse Aldrovandi

Ornithologiae tomus alter - 1600

Liber Decimusquartus
qui est 
de Pulveratricibus Domesticis

Book 14th
concerning
domestic dust bathing fowls

transcribed by Fernando Civardi - translated by Elio Corti

302

 


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Sed Scribonius loco iam citato[1] simpliciter ova hapala commendat, nec dicit ea sine putamine in aqua coqui: et Dioscorides hapalon ovum molle appellat; hoc est medium inter sorbile, et durum, ut ipse interpretatur, et nos supra quoque retulimus.

But Scribonius Largus in the just quoted passage simply recommends coddled eggs, and he doesn't say that they have to be cooked in water without shell: and Dioscorides calls hapalòn the soft egg, that is a midway between a sucking and a hard egg, as Scribonius himself translates, and as we also formerly reported.

Tyropatina[2]. Accipies lac, adversus quod patinam aestimabis: temperabis lac cum melle quasi ad lactantia, id est, lactaria, ut Humelbergius exponit, ova quinque ad sextarium mittis, sed ad heminam ova tria<.> {in} <In> lacte dissolvis, ita ut unum corpus facias: in cumana colas, et igni lento coques: cum duxerit ad se, piper aspergis et inferes.

Tiropatina - Dish from Tyre. Take milk and choose a dish according to its amount: mix the milk with honey up to transform it almost into a dairy product, that is lactaria, as Gabriel Hummelberg specifies, in a sextarius [500 ml] put five eggs, but three in an hemina [250 ml]. Melt them in the milk so that you make a single mass: let strain in an earthenware of Cuma and you will cook on slow fire: when it will have hardened sprinkle pepper and serve.

Ova sphongia ex lacte[3]: Ova quatuor lactis heminam, olei unciam in se dissolvis, ita ut unum corpus facias: in patellam subtilem adiicies olei modicum, facies, ut bulliat, et adiicies (oleo bullienti) impensam (mixtionem iam dictam ex ovis, lacte, et oleo) quam parasti. Una parte cum fuerit coctum, in disco vertes, melle perfundis, piper aspergis, et inferes. Haec omnia Apicius. Humelbergius ova sphongia interpretatur cibum, qui ovorum formam prae se ferat, et spongiosum, id est, ad modum spongiae rarum, tenerum, et inflatum. Germani, teste Ornithologo, hoc, vel simile edulium vocant ein bratne milch, quasi dicas, lac assatum, condensatum, vulgus nostras un coppo: Graece, et Latine oogala[4] dici potest, quanquam Caelius pultem ex ovis, et lacte {concinnatum} <concinnatam> oogala dici medicae rei studiosis scribat. Laudatur hoc inter cibos dysentericorum ab Aëtio, si bene memini[5].

Milky spongy eggs: Blend together four eggs, an hemina [250 ml] of milk, an ounce [27.28 g] of oil so that you make a single mass: put in a thin frying pan a little bit of oil, see that it sizzles and put (on sizzling oil) the compound (the just said mixture of eggs, milk and oil) you prepared. When the whole will be cooked on one side you will put it turned in a dish, pour honey, sprinkle pepper and serve. All this from Apicius. Gabriel Hummelberg means by spongy eggs a food which has to show the shape of the eggs and a spongy consistence, that is, rarefied, soft and blown up like a sponge. As the Ornithologist reports, the Germans call this dish, or a similar dish, ein bratne milch, as you say roasted milk, condensed, our people call it un coppo - a cup: in Greek and in Latin it can be said oogala – eggs with milk, although Lodovico Ricchieri writes that by medicine scholars is called oogala a mixture done with eggs and milk. This preparation is praised by Aetius of Amida among the foods for those people suffering from dysentery, if I correctly remember.

Ovorum albore, inquit Platina[6], utimur in condituris quorundam eduliorum, ac bellariorum. Iusculum {ceoceum} <croceum> e vitellis ovorum cum agresta, {iura} <iure>[7] vituli, aut Capi, pauco croci describitur ab eodem: item alibi[8], quomodo frictella fiat ex albamento ovorum, polline, et caseo recenti. De ovis agitatis, et confractis ex eodem. Ova cum modico aquae, et lactis bene agitata, et confracta aut tudicula, aut cochleari caseo trito commiscebis. Mixta ex butyro, {et} <vel>[9] oleo coques. Suaviora erunt, si et parum cocta, et dum coquuntur, nunquam voluta fuerint. Herbacei coloris si volueris, his betae, {aut} <ac> petroselini plusculum, succi buglossi, menthae, amaraci, salviae parum addes. Aliter. Easdem herbas concisas, et frictas modicum in butyro, aut oleo, superiori impensae admiscebis, ac coques. {Nutriunt haec, tarde concoquuntur, hepar iuvant, obstructiones et calculum generant.} <Nutriunt haec: tarde concoquit{ur} epar, iuvant oppil{l}ationes & calculum generant.>[10] Ova frictellata: In patellam ferventem oleo, aut butyro recentia, et integra, abiecto putamine, indes, lentoque igne decoques, oleo semper, praesertim cochleari, aut tudicula suffundendo. Ubi alba esse coeperint, cocta scito. Durioris concoctionis propter fricturam, haec putant medici. Haec autem eadem sunt cum iis, quae nos cotte nella teglia vulgo appellari diximus, Graecis tiganista[11].

Platina says: We use egg white to make seasonings of some courses and desserts. Still by him are described a little broth saffron colored gotten from egg yolks with verjuice, broth of veal or capon, little saffron: likewise elsewhere he describes how a pancake can be prepared with egg white, superfine flour and fresh cheese. Still from his treatise is drawn the recipe of beaten and crumbled eggs. By using an olive squeezer or a spoon mix with cut up cheese some well beaten and crumbled eggs along with a little bit of water and milk. After you mixed them, cook with butter or oil. They will be more tasty either they will be little cooked, or never will be stirred while cooking. If you wish them grass in color you will add a fair bit of beet and parsley, a little bit of juice of bugloss, mint, marjoram, sage. Another manner of preparing them. You will mix with the aforesaid mixture the same herbs cut up and only just fried in butter or oil, and cook. So prepared eggs are nourishing: the liver digests them with difficulty, are good for intestinal obstructions and give rise to calculosis. Eggs pancake shaped. Pour in a warm frying pan with oil and butter some fresh and whole eggs after the shell has been removed, and cook them properly on low flame, sprinkling always the oil, chiefly with a spoon or with the oil’s press. When they begin to appear white, remember that they are cooked. Physicians think that they are of more difficult digestion since have been fried. Really these eggs are corresponding to those we said to be usually called by Italians cotte nella teglia - cooked in roasting-pan, and by Greeks are called tiganistá.

Ova elixa: In ferventem aquam ova recentia, abiecto folliculo, indes: concreta ubi erunt, statim eximes. Tenella esse debent, ac saccharo, aqua rosacea, aromatibus dulcibus, agresta, aut succo mali {aurancii} <aurantii> suffundes. Sunt qui et tritum caseum inspergant; quod nec mihi nec {Porphoro} <Phosphoro>[12] placet, qui tali edulio persaepe vescimur. Sine caseo enim optimum, et suavissimum est. Aliter: Ova in lacte, aut vino dulci coques eo modo, quo ante. Verum de caseo nulla fiat mentio: plus alit hoc: etsi ad p<h>legmonem sanguinem ducit.

Boiled eggs: Pour in boiling water fresh eggs after their shell has been removed: when they have thickened remove them at once. They have to be rather soft, and you will pour sugar on them, rose water, sweet spices, verjuice or orange juice. There are some people sprinkling them with crumbled cheese, a thing which is not appreciated either by me or by Phosphorus, who are both eating this course very often. For without cheese it is excellent and very tasty. In another way: Cook the eggs in the aforesaid manner in milk or in sweet wine. In truth the cheese has not to be mentioned at all: it nourishes more: although it makes the blood to become infected.

Ova fricta. Ova recentia diu coquendo dura facies. Ablatis putaminibus, ova ipsa ita per medium scindes, ut nullibi albamentum comminuatur. Exemptos vitellos partim cum bono caseo tum veteri, tum recenti et uva passa contundes, partim reservabis ad pulmentum colorandum. Parum item petroselini, amaraci, menthae minutatim concisae addes. Sunt qui et duos albores ovorum, aut plures cum aromatibus indant. Hac impensa albamenta ovorum repleta, et {contusa} <conclusa>[13] lento igne in oleo friges. Frictis, moretum ex reliquis vitellis, et uva passa simul tunsis, ac ex agresta, et sapa dissolutis, addito zinzibere, {caryophillo} <caryophyllo>, cinnamo, infundes: efferveantque paululum cum ipsis ovis, facies. Hoc plus mali in se habet, quam boni.

Fried eggs. Harden fresh eggs cooking them for a long time. When shells have been removed, divide the eggs in half so that the albumen is not broken in some point. After you removed the yolks crush them partly with cheese of good quality both old and fresh and with raisin, partly set them apart at your disposal to give color to the dish. At the same time add a little bit of parsley, marjoram and mint thin chopped. There are some adding also two or more egg whites with spices. When you have stuffed and leveled out the egg whites with this mixture, fry in oil on low fire. When fried, you will put on them a crumpet gotten from remainder yolks, crushed with raisin, and dissolved in verjuice and in cooked must adding ginger, cloves, cinnamon: and you must get them to boil a little while along with the eggs themselves. All this gives more harm than good.

Ova in craticula. Ova tunsa in patellam extendes, et coques, donec concreta plicari quadrifariam possint. Haec in quadrae modum redacta, in craticulam ad focum positam extendes. Ova deinde recentia, ablatis putaminibus, huic indes {saccarumque} <saccaronque>, et cinnamum, dum coquitur, insperges. Cocta convivis appones.

Eggs on grill. Spread beaten eggs in a frying pan and cook them until when, after hardened, can be folded in four parts. After you gave them a square shape lay them on a grill placed on fire. Then add fresh eggs stripped of shells, and while this is cooking sprinkle sugar as well as cinnamon. When cooked serve them to guests.

Ova in veru. Veru bene calefacto, ova per longum transfiges, et ad ignem, ac si caro esset, torrebis. Calida sunt edenda. Stolidum inventum, et coquorum ineptiae, ac ludi{:}<.> Aliter: Ova recentia in cinere calido diligenter ad ignem volves, ut aequaliter coquantur. Exudare ubi coeperint, recentia, et cocta putato, ac convivis apponito. Optima haec sunt, et cuivis apponi percommode possunt. Aliter: Ova recentia in ollam cum recenti aqua imposita ubi parum ebullierint, eximito, et edito. Optima enim sunt, et bene alunt.

Eggs in spit. After the spit heated up very well pierce the eggs lengthwise and roast them on fire as if meat were cooked. They are to be eaten hot. It is a foolish invention, fruit of both stupidity and fun of cooks. In another way: Turn fresh eggs carefully on hot ash near a flame so that they can cook evenly. When they begin to ooze regard them as ready and cooked and serve to guests. They are excellent and can be served quite well to whoever. In another way: When fresh eggs placed in a pot with fresh water will have boiled a little, remove and eat them. For they are excellent and nourish well.

Ova fricta Florentinorum more: In ferventem ex oleo patellam, ova recentia, ablatis putaminibus, singillatim, indes, tudiculaque aut cochleari circumquaque restringes, in rotundum redigens. Coloratiora ubi esse coeperint, cocta scito. Tenella intus sint necesse est. Coqui difficilius haec, quam quae supra consueverunt. Aliter: Ova integra in carbones ardentes coniicito, ac calida donec frangantur, fuste percutito. Cocta, et exempta petroselino, et aceto suffundito.

Fried eggs in Florentine style: You will put fresh eggs one by one, shells removed, in a warm frying pan with oil, and by an olive squeezer or a spoon pile them going round in circles, giving them a round shape. When they begin to appear rather colored remember that they are cooked. They must be rather soft inside. The cooks got accustomed with a certain difficulty to cooking these eggs in comparison with the previous ones – in spit. In another manner: Put whole eggs on live charcoals and while they are hot beat them with a stick until get broken. When cooked and after the shell has been removed sprinkle them with parsley and vinegar.

Ova fricta: Caseum pinguem, et tritum, parum menthae, et petroselini concisi, uvae passae minimum, modicum piperis tunsi, {duos vitellos} <duo vitella>[14] ovorum cruda simul miscebis: mixta, in ova more Florentino fricta, ubi inde per tenue foramen vitellum exemeris, indito, ac iterum frigito, donec farcimen coquatur. Convolvenda saepius sunt, et cocta agresta, aut succo mali {aurancii} <aurantii> cum zenzibere suffundenda sunt.

Fried eggs: Mix together fat and minced cheese, a little bit of chopped mint and parsley, very little raisin, a small quantity of ground pepper, two raw egg yolks: introduce all these amalgamated things into Florentine style fried eggs in that point whence you drew out their yolk through a small hole, and fry again until the stuffing is cooked. They should be turned rather frequently and when cooked have to be sprinkled with verjuice or orange juice with ginger.

Ova in pastilli morem: Farinam subactam tenuem admodum facies, extensae per tabulam, ova recentia distincta spatiis addes{;}<,> inspergendo semper unicuique parum sacchari, aromatum, minimum salis. Involuta deinde, ut pastillos solemus, aut elixabis, aut friges. Fricta tamen laudabiliora sunt. Dura fiant caveto. Hucusque Platina.

Eggs as in folded-over pizza: Prepare very thin kneaded flour, after you spread it on a table add there fresh eggs separated by spaces, always sprinkling on each a little sugar, spices, very little salt. Then when you folded up them as we usually do for roulades, cook or fry them. However, fried they are more appreciated. Avert that they become hard. Thus far Platina.


302


[1] Compositiones medicamentorum 104. (Aldrovandi)

[2] Apicio, De re coquinaria VII,11. Dulcia domestica et melcae. - 7. Tyropatinam: accipies lac, adversus quod patinam aestimabis, temperabis lac cum melle quasi ad lactantia, ova quinque ad sextarium mittis, si ad heminam, ova tria. in lacte dissolvis ita ut unum corpus facias, in cumana colas et igni lento coques. cum duxerit ad se, piper adspargis et inferes. (da www.fh-augsburg.de)

[3] Apicio, De re coquinaria VII,11. Dulcia domestica et melcae. - 8.

[4] Aldrovandi ne ha già parlato a pagina 283, dove viene citato anche Ezio di Amida.

[5] Visto che il brano è tratto da Gessner ed è Gessner a essere colto dal dubbio, era il momento per Aldrovandi di togliersi questo dubbio ereditato da Gessner: consultare una volta per tutte il trattato di Ezio. - Conrad Gessner Historia Animalium III (1555) pag. 439: Laudatur hoc inter cibos dysentericorum ab Aetio, si bene memini.

[6] De honesta voluptate liber 6 cap. 44. (Aldrovandi).

[7] Conrad Gessner Historia Animalium III (1555) pag. 439: Iusculum croceum e vitellis ovorum cum agresta, iure vituli aut capi, pauco croci, etc. describitur a Platina 6. 44.

[8] De honesta voluptate liber 9 cap. 3. (Aldrovandi).

[9] Le correzioni al testo vengono effettuate sia in base all’edizione del De honesta voluptate a nostra disposizione Libellus platine de honesta voluptate ac valitudine (Bononiae, per Johannem Antonium Platonidem, 1499), sia in base a quello di Conrad Gessner Historia Animalium III (1555) pag. 439: De ovis agitatis et confractis: Ova cum modico aquae et lactis bene agitata, et confracta aut tudicula aut cochleari, caseo trito commiscebis. Mixta, ex butyro vel oleo coques. Suaviora erunt, si et parum cocta, et dum coquuntur, nunquam voluta fuerint. Herbacei colores si voles, his betae ac petroselini plusculum, succi buglossi, menthae. amaraci, salviae parum addes.

[10] Insomma, tra tutte le azioni negative di queste uova così preparate, si salverebbe il fegato, proprio il fegato che è il laboratorio attraverso il quale tutte le sostanze ingerite debbono transitare. Non solo si salva, addirittura ne riceve dei benefici. Allora – come discepolo di Esculapio - non ho potuto frenare la mia curiosità e ho confrontato il testo di Gessner e di Aldrovandi con l'unico testo del Platina a mia disposizione. E forse la cosa diventa ancora più intricata, ma a una lettura affrettata, non certo favorita dalla strana e carente punteggiatura di certi testi antichi. Ecco il testo del Platina in Libellus platine de honesta voluptate ac valitudine (Bononiae, per Johannem Antonium Platonidem, 1499). Questa ricetta si trova nel libro IX, capitolo 19: Nutriunt haec: tarde concoquitur epar iuvant oppillationes & calculum generant. – Se vogliamo una trascrizione più confacente, eccola: Nutriunt haec: tarde concoquit{ur} epar, iuvant oppil{l}ationes & calculum generant. – Come al solito è questione di una virgola, ma stavolta si aggiunge un concoquitur del Platina (invece di un corretto concoquit) trasformato da Gessner e Aldrovandi, o da chi per essi, in concoquuntur. Grazie a ciò, e alla fatidica virgola, agli occhi di Gessner e di Aldrovandi il fegato si salva e ne esce vittorioso, e si salva in un contesto che secondo il loro punto di vista sarebbe alquanto deleterio. Invece il Platina afferma che le uova così preparate sono nutrienti, il fegato fa fatica a digerirle, sono utili contro le ostruzioni intestinali, ma sono causa di calcolosi (non sappiamo se biliare oppure urinaria, tralasciando la calcolosi salivare, altrimenti verrei tacciato di ridondante perfezionismo). – Per cui, per puri motivi medici, sfuggiti ai miei due illustri colleghi, il testo viene emendato, con grande gioia del Platina.

[11] Sono state descritte a pagina 301. – Si accetta tiganista supponendo che non si tratti di un errore tipografico, bensì della pronuncia in greco moderno. Infatti a pagina 301 viene riportato tëganistà.

[12] Sia il Libellus platine de honesta voluptate ac valitudine (Bononiae, per Johannem Antonium Platonidem, 1499), sia Conrad Gessner Historia Animalium III (1555) pag. 439, riportano Phosphoro. – Stando alle ricerche biografiche del 3 novembre 2005, nulla cambia da un punto di vista pratico: che si chiamasse Porforo oppure Fosforo poco importa, in quanto - per ora - nulla è disponibile circa il platiniano Fosforo.

[13] Sia il Libellus platine de honesta voluptate ac valitudine (Bononiae, per Johannem Antonium Platonidem, 1499), sia Conrad Gessner Historia Animalium III (1555) pag. 439, riportano conclusa. – Per essere precisi bisogna dire che nel Libellus platine de honesta voluptate ac valitudine è presente verosimilmente un errore. Infatti questo capitolo (IX,22) è intitolato Ova fracta, uova rotte, e non fricta, il che contrasta completamente col modo di prepararle, anzi, l'albume non va rotto in alcun punto, essendo solo i tuorli a venir disintegrati. E gli albumi integri e svuotati vanno fritti.

[14] Sia Platina che Gessner hanno duo vitella. Si emenda, altrimenti  il senso della frase risulterebbe alterato. Infatti duos vitellos non concorda con cruda.